350 followed me home

I think you need a few more.

 

I tore the saw down and the piston is done. The cylinder might be salvageable with enough work, but I am going to put my spare on it and not worry about it right now. The chains alone are worth what I paid for the saw. I don't need it, but you don't see a minty looking 350 every day. I already have a pile of saws, maybe 15 now, and most of them are in need of repair. The 350 needs a new drum, so I will convert it to rim drive. It also needs a metal intake boot clamp. I will sharpen the chains and dress what's left of the bar and see if it still passes for serviceable. If it's worn out, I have a brand new one on hand.

I'll put new seals in it since they are almost 20 years old. I have to pull the cylinder base anyway to machine it, so seals are an easy add-on.

 

I love those roller tip bars.

 

Since I have never seen one of those bars, could you kindly tell me what it is that you like about them? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks!

 

One of the best firewood saws of it's era. I have cut a lot of wood with one. Tank vents can be a pain.

 

I guess its how the roller is exposed and looks like the front track wheel on a dozer. No other reason than aesthetics. Lol. I've had a few of the Remington versions from the 60's. Still have one hanging up for shop decoration.

 

My Makita DCS401 has a Remington roller tip bar on it in this picture.

 

I missed a part of your question. A roller tip is just a smooth wheel on the tip with the same grove as the bar for the drivers to ride in. This in contrast to a sprocket tip, pretty much standard on most saws for years now, that has the teeth for the drivers to engage. I'm sure you are familiar with the latter. Lol

 

Absolutely not!

 

Is it in working condition. If it is but it and I'll buy it from you plus some boot money for your troubles.

 

Sorry, looks like it's sold.
https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/grd/d/harrisburg-husqvarna-345/7633445626.html

 

Well I appreciate you looking.

 

I’ve thought about doing that with my 345. First saw I ever bought and it has cut more than its share. It doesn’t owe me anything

 

Those saws w/ the ported 346 top end have to be at the top of the hill in the power to weight ratio. The older I get the more I want the lightest saw possible. Especially when there is a lot of limbing to do at or above chest height. When I was working over orchards, that was 75% of what I cut.
I had another forum friend buy be a local 350 and he got me a new 346 top kit, delivered it to Driller Saws (Mike Toath), then he dropped off the planet and stopped communicating with everyone. So right now I'm screwed out of one...

 

Driller made some good saws. From what I understand, we both did the same stuff to the saw. It was strange to see jb weld in the lower transfers and it looked exactly like mine, right down the the air bubble in the same spot.

 

So yet another saw porter gone bad. What a shame. There are others out there that will eventually come to light as well. This I'm confident in.

 

You talking in the riser base? He showed me pics of when he did that. I ground out the dividers on mine and “smoothed” flow.