Spent most of the afternoon working on the build. Got the rest of the flooring nailed down. (Still have the 4x4 section far left to finish the frame and install floor). "Padded" under the joists to lessen any sag (old 2x10 & 2x12 stair treads) since its basically a big pallet resting on grade where it can. Attached to the shed too. Set an end rafter to get an idea of slope. Front will have less than a foot overhang and back over 30" as framed Sandhillbilly The two front rows in the shed finally collapsed while i was there. Vibration and hammering made it go. Some will get mixed in the new stacks. Started another row and taking a lesson from T.Jeff Veal, decided to stack as high as i can go. Planned for an air space between rows. It with fit seven rows so originally i was wrong at eight cord. It will hold seven if i stack 5' tall but at 6.5' it will hold roughly 9.33 cords. Couple ramps and wheel it right up there to stack. Less bending is gooder for stacking for this old back. Have to build the center "wall" before stacking more. Gotta rip some 2x4's from some reclaimed 2x8's. Have to scrounge up more 8' 2x4's.
You got me motivated to get some more done on mine. Cut the rafters this afternoon and plan to put them on tomorrow
No. All the framing lumber on the ground is pressure treated, except a doubled up joist that is not and that one is not touching the ground. The "pads" are PT as well that were saved from stairs that ive replaced on decks. Going to have decent overhang too so less likely to get wet. I may put a rain gutter on back as well
Nice. I know this stuff is simple for a lot of guys, but I can barely tie my shoes (so to speak). I need to take a carpentry class, a welding class, a small engine repair class...if you know what I mean.
I understand. We're only human after all. Like my sig line says "anything is easy if you know what you are doing" I need to take a small engine class myself!
Don’t feel bad Hinerman, I don’t weld, I learned small engine by a good friend. He learned and “I grew up poor in a rich neighborhood.. so I fixed OPE neighbors threw away!!” The new pressure treated doesn’t last as long as the old stuff, probably why brad is using it; plus it’s free! ps if your not confident in flooring system, ground fabric and PT 2x8 as perimeter fill with gravel
I now get any wood racks off the ground using various concrete paving blocks, that I've accumulated over the years. Even if PT'd, I'm still lifting them a few inches.
Most of this is "old" PT which was all ground contact. If i were building a "normal" shed it would be on piers and beams or on a gravel pad. I was saving labor here too. With as much wood that it will have im wondering what will happen? Gonna find out.
I priced out a sheet of marine grade 3/4" plywood probably over 20 years ago...it was $50 even back then! I'd hate to ask now!
No doubt ridiculous. Makes me think back to when my dad replaced 85% of the lobster boat floor- it was spongy like no tomorrow. That was so long ago I can’t remember what he paid then for 3/4” PT.
Worked on the shed for an hour late today. Started the divider wall. Used the wood from a pallet i scored at Lowes today. 6'x8' made with 2x4 & 2x6. Didnt get the wall finished so no pics of it built. And i dont know whats wrong with my brain lately. Shed will hold ONLY six cord at 5' high stacked so 6.5' i will go and hold eight cord.
LOL!!! No on the cart and yes on the dismantle. It was cheap "white wood" (generic utility softwood) and it came apart rather easily. Doesnt hold a nail as well as standard douglas fir framing lumber, but doesnt have to. Used once and then thrown away. I brought a new demo tool and used it for the task. It was on clearance at 25% off and i happened to walk by.