That looks great Kevin! Should stand up to the test of time for you. I’ll probably steal some ideas from you when I make one!
That looks awesome. If you really used $75 worth of screws, that is unreal how much screws cost. I know that I was surprised at cost when I bought hardware for a small project.
I thought the same, actually I thought that is a new chainsaw right there in materials hah I used over a $100 in bolts and nuts when I built my stake bed sides and that was pre craziness
Nicer than mine I’ve been wanting to build a table but haven’t needed it really yet I’ve found. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great looking sawbuck! I've been thinking about making a large bucking table. I've been using my 3 point hitch sawbuck.
Kevin, what mods are you planning that you mentioned? After using mine for a year, here’s some thoughts (overthinking thoughts) after studying yours. (I was stuck on a plane yesterday and bored). You may have created a great start to the “Ultimate Sawbuck”. I like the “table” vs my traditional way. It’s a bit of a PITA to lift heavy rounds out and over the crosses. Yours is much better. My crosses are spaced 16-18” apart. Though when it worked out with the right log the cut will land next to a cross to saw and then the piece cut off tilts down and away to not pinch the saw. (See photo above in thread) Sadly, it has problems. The saw head would hit a cross leg sticking up, piece falls backwards pinching bar, or falls through and then I have to pick it up off the ground. Your closer than normal spacing (I’m guessing 10-11”) like that solves all my issues. Good find! I used some of that extra scrap board to make shelves underneath to set my saw on at each end. Highly recommended. Easy, protects saw, handy at end of log cutting, and saw stays out of dirt/sawdust and out from under my feet or tractor.(See photo) gas/oil jug on back side end of shelves is a bonus. Also makes a “tie” to combat legs spreading is another bonus. Nitpicking if I was building from scratch, moving that upper horizontal board up and under the “table” crosses snugly would give them extra support for no extra labor or materials. Free support gain for when log slams onto table. I used carriage head bolts to possibly swivel whole thing shut which never happens and protect from hitting with chain. Waste of money and time vs glued/screwed/half lapped as you’ve done. Now I have to take mine apart and redo it. Great job on yours! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you. But it was a couple months in the making and explaining to my buddy what I wanted to achieve. Since he's the wood guy, he's the guy that brought it a reality... I'll try to break each one down and explain my thought process. I like the “table” vs my traditional way. It’s a bit of a PITA to lift heavy rounds out and over the crosses. Yours is much better. Thats what I didn't like about my old one. My forks with the wood would have to lift high to clear the front. But it wasn't stable enough to drop a good size log or it all would go backwards. Wasn't deep enough to hardly clear my forks to pull out after depositing the log. Then getting them back out was lifting up and out. Just more work. My crosses are spaced 16-18” apart. Though when it worked out with the right log the cut will land next to a cross to saw and then the piece cut off tilts down and away to not pinch the saw. (See photo above in thread) Sadly, it has problems. The saw head would hit a cross leg sticking up, piece falls backwards pinching bar, or falls through and then I have to pick it up off the ground. Your closer than normal spacing (I’m guessing 10-11”) like that solves all my issues. Good find! Mine are spaced at 9" from the right side of the 2x6 to 2x6. So actually what 7 inches plus inside of 2x6 to 2x6... That solves my other issue is that tetter totter of the wood. I wanted 2 pieces of 2x6 under each cut for stability. My normal cut is 18" lengths. Luckily that worked out perfectly to fit the width of my forks. On that one picture I have 2 green letter "F" on it. So I can remember where my forks go... Nitpicking if I was building from scratch, moving that upper horizontal board up and under the “table” crosses snugly would give them extra support for no extra labor or materials. Free support gain for when log slams onto table. But If I did that I take the chance of cutting into the board, which I didn't want to do. We thought about it and weighed that option over several times. I wanted that piece to be further away from the wood I was cutting so I didn't have to feather the throttle so much and I had more room to stop before cutting into that piece of wood. IF...IF we see that the front table portion is become weak or moving he said we can reinforce with a triangle reinforcement under each or every other beam to help support and distrubute the force/weight. So its still in line of the beam and out of the way of the chain. I used carriage head bolts to possibly swivel whole thing shut which never happens and protect from hitting with chain. Waste of money and time vs glued/screwed/half lapped as you’ve done. I didn't want metal sticking out for the chain to have a chance to hit like my last one. Plus I wasn't wanting to fold it. The glue/Screw/half lap was his baby. He said it would be more time involved making it but it would be stronger at the end of the day. Now as far as mods. One I'm going to have figure out is how to keep a piece from rolling. The angle is slight enough, but I guess not enough to keep it rolled back against the back support. More time will be needed to figure that out exactly. But initial thoughts are on every every end or may every other end put a small vertical up rising. Or in we can increase the angle slight by by putting one or both of the extra 2x6 under the front end. That would accomplish angle increase and be replaceable to keep the lifespan of the saw buck up by keep the feet out of contact with the ground. The second mod I saw while searching was someone had a stop board so that the end of the wood would be against it and allow more "perfect" alignment with the open space of the saw buck and my bucking length. This one isn't a high priority, though. Hopefully this lays out my thought process of why I did what I did. You have have anymore question, I'll be happy to try to address. As I was given advice and help on this project.
Point noted on hitting the horizontal board at bottom of cuts. It did cross my mind. Mine have some bite marks I admit. I tryed the “stop” end and it didn’t work for me. It was fiddly trying to get everything lined up with tractor and a longer piece would hang way out on one side. I can balance a long piece on the buck. Nibble it down each end like we do balanced on forks/grapple, then get after it. I chalk mark all mine now with my pickaroon handle as a measuring stick after it sits on the buck anyway for more consistent lengths. I adjust one round’s length slightly as I start marking to make the cuts come out in the right places on the buck. I do plan on cutting 18” this year rather than the 16” I started out with since both of my stoves will take it and will create more stable stacks. As far as the rollout issue. Maybe a small angled notch around an inch deep toward the intersection on the table tops? The tilt back of the whole thing with a board under the legs does seem easier though. Thanks for the follow up. I enjoy projects like this with the little details that “make it better” . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's beautiful. I won't taint this thread and show my 5' saw buck I tossed together with scrap lumber I had lying around.
This is pretty easy with an radial arm saw also. I usually use my circular saw as described. Keeping the repetitive cuts less than 1/4” apart. 1/8” is better. Then smack em out with a claw hammer using the claw to rake out the loose pieces and then my timber frame chisel (shaving sharp) to clean up the bottom if needed. (Usually not much). PS oh yeah and welcome! My brain runs faster than my manners… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Faargo .... Didn't notice lastnight... Sorry... ... But Welcome to FHC... ... Pretty much spot on with what Lennyzx11 stated... I think I explained how we ended up doing the final touches with one of those fast oscilating hand tools.. Just a little cleaner and easier...
It’s that “inside corner” with a circular saw that’s driving me bonkers. The straight cuts at lower left are logical. The corner at upper right must have been multi-tooled? (oscillating saw)
