I bought one three years ago that has never run good .Does the same thing yours is doing.Had it in the shop three time and still not right.I is out of warranty now so I am thinking hard about just getting it ported and be done with it
Have a trusted saw nut go through the fuel system. The intake boot issue and a finicky idle can usually be identified and fixed.
This old thing? This is more or less how to do it on a bone stock saw, with known factory specs, with a tach. But you can hear the saw making all the right (and wrong) noises for sure. It's worth noting that even though I set this one to factory specs, it was a bit rich since it wasn't 100% factory stock. It had an Australian-spec muffler on it which is very different than the North American spec. First time out cutting I ended up tweaking it a bit leaner to stop it from.... stalling at idle. Also leaned it out a tad on the H side.
The beauty of you tube on full display here! A four minute video explains the subject better than any amount of written guides ever could. This should be thumb tacked right at the top of the chainsaw forum.
So I finally got off my arse today and went and looked at my XT intake. It’s intact, so on to Walt’s method of tuning the carb. Here is a picture of the flap.
Correction, it was Spike60 from another forum who wrote or responded to the thread on how to tune the L jet on an X-Torq carb. (Yes I have been searching for that thread since the 7th) In essence, a too rich low jet will puddle or pool up fuel in the intake boot. Lean the L jet out until you can tip the saw (after letting it idle for several seconds) forward without a bog or stall. Once you can do that you then adjust your idle speed with the idle screw.
There’s also a screen inside the carb that needs to be cleaned out. see this video about the carb screen, vent and fuel filter. Vid I found on YT - Chainsaw Maintenance