I'd agree, probably why every other was "normal" on these old loops. If not, the goo would eventually ramp the chain out of the groove.
Good point. Of course i was joking about the square grind. Even if sharpened as they suggest seems like it would wear out a spur/paddle wheel sprocket faster. All my saws have rim sprockets.
Sounds like lots of opportunity for someone to corner the market on fixing (bottom sharpening) everyone's chains then, eh?!
Couple years ago, I found a guy on CL selling 10 loops of 105dl (32" for Husky guys) chain for $100. 8 of them were brand new in boxes and 2 were used a time or two. After getting a breaker/spinner to resize them, I noticed several loops with those rounded drive links. Weird drive links on LGX Oregon chain.
When I flip my bar (which I do every time I change out a loop), I take a putty knife and clean the groove of schmeg anyway, plus I give the roller nose a bit of grease as well.
I ran an 011avt for 10 years as my only saw and then an ms250 for 6 as my only saw. I thought the 590 was a big saw when I got it. I skimmed through the manual. Now I've owned a 7910 and currently have a 2095 j red neither came with a manual.
This is nothing new I have old manuals that contain these instructions. It doesn't touch the drive sprocket so it doesn't chew it up. I seem to remember the wording as "keep this corner sharp" ie if you bugger it up file it out, which you should do anyway. I also believe its purpose is to help keep the bar oil hole clear. A sharp edge will shear off and carry away the swarf but a rounded, perpendicular to thickness, edge can actually force chips into the hole. Bottom line is they come sharp and unless you damage them they stay sharp.
First time ive ever heard that word and thought it was slang until i just looked it up! Always learning something here.
Just like the CT motorcycle training manual...big bright colorful pictures. (I know, I took the class).