Oil mixtures and thoughts

I have not. Reason being is pictures and experiences from other trusted members of my oil PM. It was scary dry and left a chalk like residue behind.

 

Lol. I took a gamble and answered.

 

I have a gallon here. I can send you down some and see if Lucas can knock Stens out of its position

 

I'm interested in that.

 

Are you using the Lucas full synthetic? That is the only version I've read about peoples experience with. It could be their only 2 cycle oil for that matter as I haven't checked.

Just remember this, your personal experience trumps others experience because you have the proof in front of you and if it is working for you, in your environment and how you operate your ope then I wouldn't sweat it.

 

Yea the modern two stroke oil injected outboards run more like 80:1 or like you said 100:1 that's why many recommended even on the VRO mix pumps that put the mix in the carb bowls to not gun it after ideling cause the mix in the bowl is very lean and will be for a few seconds. They say to increase slower to plane or wot. I just don't understand the race to as little oil in a two stroke as possible?? After all the bearings lube chit. Even being Amsoil it's way cheaper to buy oil than it is to save like 8 bottles of oil over the life IF it blows prematurely and try to buy a new piece of equipment or fix it with the oil savings you had by running ultra lean ratios.

 

I thought the Lucas was semi syn? I have a quart at the house. Well it's an empty bottle that I pour RA into so that I don't have to take a gallon just around.... actually the sticker may have fallen off. Wait there is a pic of Lucas on the first page to look at...and I guess we all have Google now.

Edit : right after that post Dave posted a pic and answer.

 

What I have read and been told is running a heavy oil mix leans things out and cause premature failure ( Over heating- siezed pistons and the like). Unless you retune the unit for that mix. Well avg consumer does not have a clue about that. Awhile back there was quite the grumbling going on about new saws seizing up- set very lean from OEM ( make the EPA regs), compounded by heavy oil mixes. Guess I have been lucky as I generally run 50-1 plus a skosh. My saws get run hard, only had one base gasket let go so far ( that was because the unit took a hard hit you could not shut it down by the switch). That unit is some 20 years old. I am not a small engine guru- I just get bye. In my mind I figured that there was a carbon buildup on the piston head, but that wasn't the case. I ran into that on some old outboards. I took it to someonemuch better than myself at this than I - his first idea was the same as mine - torn it down nope that was,t the problem. re assembled fired it up, luckly ( his word not mine) noted a couple of puffs from the cylinder base.

 

Having mineral oil in that bottle is probably the difference. And, there is no laws or rules that dictate the amount of synthetic oil vs mineral to be called semi synthetic. So for extreme examples, an oils base stock could be 1% synthetic and 99% mineral all the way up 99% synthetic 1% mineral. Both of these examples could / would be called semi synthetic.

 

I would like nothing more that to bring my testing back into the light of the open forum but, unfortunately a couple of the same people that were problematic on the other forum are also members here. A robust debate wasn't the issue either. I'll leave it at that.

 

I fully agree.
I'm not a boat guy but I've read that some inject no oil at idle for up to 10 minutes if I recall. They rely on the left over residue in the crankcase. I've conducted one test with this type of situation. The idea was an accident from the results of a previous test. I plan on doing more of these tests with other oils.

What I did was run a trimmer on a normal ratio, I think it was 40:1 for a tank of gas and let it idle a few minutes before shut down, which tends to leave more oil behind and is my standard practice for many years. Anyway, I then straight gassed this unit and it ran 57 minutes on straight gas. Yes, 57 minutes. Then, upon inspection, there was still some red oil in the crankcase. I would have thought all the oil would have migrated out of the engine, as it needs to do to lube the top end, but not all did. It is a very thick oil and I believe thicker oils may impede oil migration to the top end but are probably better at keeping the lube on the bearings.