File vs Electric Sharpening...

I have three of the $100 models. They’re steel. I can’t imagine overheating or burrs. Course I don’t jam them in there and try to remove half a tooth at a time either.
Now the cheap Chinese wheels that came with the machine, yeah, molten slag is easy to make and burrs the size of fingernails.

 

I'm interested in knowing where you found the steel wheels. I could use them for profiling chip breakers in plastic turning tools.

 

Know sumptin, You’re absolutely right. Just went and checked and they are aluminum. Doh!!

Found this for ya

CBN Chainsaw Sharpening 5 3/4" Disk, 7/8" Arbor, 1/8" Thick

 

Agree'd. This and the fact that I have arthritis-like symptoms after vigorous use of fingers/hands, both of which led me to seek out a grinder. I should have got one long ago! No regerts. Lol.

 

No wonder you enjoy noodling so much

 

Since getting it, when I accidentally bump ground or a rock I'm a lot less bummed out than I used to be. I just carry spare loops, swap them out and keep cutting. So in that aspect, it has increased my productivity. I never leave the house without a fresh ground loop on my saws. If they fall off a little in cut speed, swap it out.

 

I can see that. That’s pretty much how I do it too. Never been a hand filer. Only difference is the mental aspect. I’m just fixing a factory profile. You created your own. I think I’d enjoy grinding more that way

 

Thanks for the link !!
Just what a tool addict needs.

 

I have a cheap file kit. I don't do it right yet, my saw pulls to the side. But I'm not going to get it right by not trying.

 

I just bought a cheap Husqvarna kit myself. Mostly for the different style raker gauge inside. There’s definitely times just a small touch up is in order. Hand filing is great for that. When I cut a rock in half that’s different.

 

Uneven cutter length can lead to that if you use this style tool to file your depth gauges.


Switch to a progressive style and you will cut straight again (assuming your bar rails are true).

Just make sure you get the right one for your pitch chain.
Really good info here: http://gepkolcsonzo.eu/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/complete-book.pdf
About pg. 16 it explains more detail of depth gauge maintenance.

 

That things a monster! I've seen one at a saw shop once but don't know anything about them. Very impressive!

 

that is a grinder for chisel profile, common name square grinder, unless you re-profile the wheel it does not do round style teeth - not sure if even re-profiling the wheel would accomplish that or not. On the other hand the common shop saw style grinders are not any good for a proper chisel profile. Drawback is you have to go back at some point and clean out the gullets as a second operation when using a sq grinder, and of course still the depth gauges to adj.

 

I have always Sharpened by hand, but i had a 20% off for harbor freight, and a couple chains were cutting curves (GOOD CUTS, BUT CURVES), so I figured I would try their sharpener on the MS 290.
Stay tuned...

 

I use this little piece of crap and once I learned it I can sharpen 3 chains more accurately than by hand. Still love bybhand tho. It really connects you with your saw. U know what I mean?

 

I have entered some race chain contests and I have done ok. I only entered chains that were ground on an electric grinder.
But even though I did pretty good the guys who really know how to file their chains always took first place.

So, if you are good with a file, it will always cut faster than one done on a machine. I just prefer using a machine myself because it is so easy, and I can get consistent results.