When you were going through it with the other guys did you find a ground at the back of the frame? I don’t 100% remember the location and my computer with the info is at work. If the fuel pump driver module is bad the truck won’t start but that shouldn’t cause the lights to go out. I really suspect that ground back there on the frame by the passenger or driver wheel. Again a load test for ground at the plate lamp will tell a lot quickly. Also do you have any DTC’s?
I dont recall seeing any ground wire towards the rear. Didnt see anything on the frame. There were a bunch on the front passender fender, one on the frame under the driver door. The ONLY spot we didnt check was above the spare tire. Also..... Half of the big black square fuses were warn, the other half wasnt. We coyldnt get them out at all. I dont know what a dct is
In my picture above, i think that's the case. I'l need to remove the plate which i think this connects to. I'm not sure which wire this is yet
The fuel pump module has a habit of rotting where it mounts to the frame, unbolt it and the aluminum will be all flakey, might even have a hole in it If it doesn't, the fix to prevent it was to elevate it off the frame with studs and nuts that keep a gap so anything doesn't accumulate under it
Chit..... grinded down to new metal new connector but still no rear lights ect. I'm gonna charge the battery awhile check again and move on to whatever could be next
Me personally, I would disconnect the battery terminals, make sure they are nice and clean, charge the battery, then reconnect...sometimes these bus system controllers need "resynchronized"
actually the repair for the fuel pump control was to isolate it from the frame, cause- dissimiller metals in contact with each other in a caustic environment= galvanic corrosion. repair mostly requires replacement control unit with an isolation kit as the moisture gets inside the case and corrodes the connection terminals up into the potted board. My first experince with this was a 1980 datsun king cab pickup 4wd. It would start losing one cylinder at a time- ( 4 banger) using the oem repair manual the very first thing to do was remove the computer assembly from the block. I never could find the problem at first and it always ran fine again until it got damp out side then it wood rear its ugly head . after a couple weeks of this, I was driving down the road and the proverbial light bulb lit up. computer assembly- Alum case- grounded to cast iron block. The alum. wood oxidize losing electrical connection. the mere cracking of a bolt lose and retightening would solve the problem for awhile- pulled buffed it out greased the h out of it problem resolved. ( first year production -third month)
Any way to run this broken ground i thought i fixed to another ground, even another vehicle via a jump start cable?
M most vechicles now have constant power to one side of the the component. the computer system controls the grounding either directly or through a relay. systems operate above chassis ground