I pity da fool that ever tries to rebuild an engine with this stuff already in it...scraping old gaskets sux enough the way it is without "superglue" as a booster!
If you were going to go that far it’d be much easier to just replace the head gasket in the first place. Maybe cheaper or easier now if it’s not a big money ride and if it works, it works. Head or block crack? Definitely worth it. I did it on my tractor because I wasn’t tearing the head off. That was like 5 years ago now. I still have no intention of replacing the head gasket.
I meant if you ended up trading it in to a dealer on one of those "push pull or drag" sales and they sold it to someone "as is" and then it had problems, then that someone with more time on their hands decided to try n fix it...
We actually used boiler leak stop on the 3.4 gm V6. Yeah, I think that would be way worse than the complaints that you hear about using fix a flat or even slime from tire changers. Dad traded it on on a used 98 3.0 Vulcan V6 Taurus. Since they didn't disclose that there had to have been damage to the front bumper on the Taurus, he didn't feel the need to tell them about the engine sealer. That Taurus had a 96-97 nose/bumper on it and a no accident record on it. It checked out fine, and when dad sold that Taurus, it had 350k on it and didn't need anything outside of normal service wear items. Well, aside from both of the passenger side doors when a large buck ran into it.
You meant the Obummer cash for clunkers sales units. Bad thing there is they disposed of a lot of collectibles nowadays with that.
Yup, prior to all that I had bought a $200 Tempo that needed a little bit of nothing and I put another 130k on it @ 40 MPG the whole way (5 speed) then still got $250 for it in scrap! Never do that again!
Nope and now they have the market so f’d up you might as well buy new vs used. At a Chevy dealer Friday that had a 17 duramax Denali crew cab with a plow. 78k on it. $52,000 is what they allowed for a trade, don’t know what they were selling for. Ummm nope. Wife says next year she’s buying me a new truck cause mines 10 years old I told her we don’t need another mortgage the house is almost paid off.
My dad is having trouble with his 02 ranger. After it warms up it is overflowing the reservoir with bubbles...pretty sure the head gasket is leaking exhaust into the coolant. I'm tempted to try this sealant but the trouble is the thermostat and housing are integrated...not sure if I can remove it and follow the procedure on the sealant.
There's 2 kinds of sealer. The main ingredient is sodium silicate. If the leak is getting in the oil, than do not use. Sodium silicate will seize up engines. Reading it was used during wartime to pour into enemy tanks or vehicles to kill them immediately. There's a kind that can be poured directly into the radiator and leave it be (there is potential it could block up the heater core, thermostat, water pump) As well as another kind tree killer describes a page back that you drain the antifreeze, flush until clear, mix the stuff with water, run a few times, drain and fill with antifreeze. We're supposed to get to 51° tomorrow, so i may try this. I still think i should get an oem thermo
Oil and coolant both look good....no milkshakes. The only leak I have is exhaust into coolant.... I think.
Ok, i boiled the original oem thermostat i originally took out and it opened right up, so that's not bad. I double checked this morning for any mayonnaise in the oil and didn't see any. I'm thinking im just gonna run over to napa and try that k&w stuff. I can't tell if there's more white smoke coming from the exhaust because it's cold out. I smelled and took a visual on the drips from the exhaust, seem normal, but i dunno. Gonna head to Napa and maybe talk to them a bit too see which kind i should get. The pour into the radiator kind or the drain everything and mix with water kind
I think the pour in and leave it kind is for when you are losing coolant, not "gaining" compression...
This is all they had. Says for head gasket fix (which i don't know is the problem for sure) I could go to o'reilleys and see if they have the k & w stuff. I also swung in to get a quote for a head gasket replacement, a new water pump, and a new timing belt. They quoted $1500- $2000, that's doable, but I'll try the cheaper method first.
Order now and have it tomorrow. This is what you want to use. Drive the truck for a few days to get by.
I switched out the Subaru radiator cap, added that stuff. After a little while i still had the issue, maybe i didn't run the car enough. Called the Subaru dealer set up an appt to have them diagnose the issue. Will cost 50-100 bucks per their quote over the phone. I drive in they say $150, i tell em no! I was quoted $100 bucks tops! 45 minute drive, everything stabilized for 40 minutes to the point i was gonna cancel the appt, but i decided to continue here. I had fluctuation of engine temp but no real overheat, it came close. I lost heat in the passenger dash vent but not the driver side, wierd. I wondering if this just needs a little time? First go around overheat happened in 10 minutes, now an hour later it stayed mostly stable. We'll see, will probably be worse when i drive outta here!
My experience with those "stop leak" products is they work best after a few drive cycles to work...this is likely the same I'm guessing