Chain saw blade won't fit in bar groove

Yup, a sanding drum will change the burrs off the driver's nice and quick . And things don't get too wild if the drum slips past the driver. Unlike using an angle grinder .

 

I just replace my sprocket with a floating rim sprocket and assembled the saw and now the clutch engages all the time. I wonder if I need to take some sandpaper to the inner clutch part. Anybody had this problem? I got the Oregon 108215X one.

 

Sounds like you might have the wrong clutch drum.

 

Kinda sounds like a clutch drum bearing problem. Pull the clutch off then see if the clutch drum spins super freely on the bearing. Did u grease the bearing ? You should every time you pull the clutch off. If it has a Grease hole in the crank shaft. Make sure u can pump grease thru it.
Were u careful to fit the clutch drum down into the oiler gear ?
Does the saw stall when you pop the chain brake handle to engage the brake. ?
Can you start it with the chain brake engaged ?

 

Not all cranks have the hole for oil. That home-owner saw probably does not. These swaps aren't always as easy as getting a different drum. On the end of that rim carrier there are splines. Make sure they fit into the plastic worm drive on the saw. Sometimes you have to swap that plastic to fit the splines on the drum. That plastic btw, drives the bar oil pump, so this isn't something you want to overlook.

Can you post a pic of the clutch and drum as it sits now?

 

That has happened to me a couple times in the past if th chain jumps the bar. As stated find the offending little dings (a major PITA for me) and file them down. Test the chain by running it loosely through the bar when its off the saw. Should go smooth and easy with no resistance. This will let you know if you got them all. I bent one chain as a couple links were too stiff and it was trash.

Check chain tension when cutting. If too loose it is more likely to jump the bar. Forcing a dull chain will overheat and stretch it. Avoid binding/jams as well.

 

Happened to me too. All my sprockets are the rim type. When i owned just one saw it had the spur type sprocket and i changed it to the rim type. Pretty simple to do. Just and E clip holding it on IIRC.

 

Most Husky saws don't have that style clutch set-up.

 

Here are some pictures of it. I held the old one up to it and it looks to be the same size.

 

I never thought about using the screw driver and hammer to wack the clutch for removal.
Guess it would work in a pinch.

 

Without the bar and chain on the saw, can u spin the clutch drum with your finger tips ?

 

I watched that same video today. He is quicker at it than I am.


Mike in Okla

 

I kinda think he may have prepped things. My clutches usually need a bit more body english.

 

I’ve always removed em that way. The little slot where it says off and the arrow is for screwdriver placement. I wouldn’t be banging on that ear. I use a string in the cylinder instead of a piston stop. Just have to make sure it doesn’t get into a port.

Paul Dokken
As questioned above, can you spin the drum with the chain and bar off? These splines fitting in your oil pump drive gear?

 

It could be that you got the springs hot and are now weak. So even at an idle they will allow the clutch to come in and spin the chain.

 

Here is a short video of what is going on

 

I've twice had the chain fly off. Both times while cutting small brush with the top of the bar. Sorta using a swinging motion to mow through.
I think when the chain grabs, the slack in the chain balls up and jumps off the bar near the drive/clutch

 

See the video I posted earlier. It did get a little looser.