Momma Bear, Added baffle today, and moved vent pipe to top, pictures:

I got bored today, and decided to make the conversion to top vent, and added a removable baffle out of half inch thick plate. Almost done, still need to patch up the back hole, and weld the pipe in the top plate, but I have the pipe all cleaned up and fitted in the top, just need to weld it in.

 

That's a 10" wide baffle plate, on about a 45 degree angle. I didn't choke it off as much as I probably could have. Should I put any small holes in the bottom area of that baffle or do you think I am good as is? I was going to use 3/8" thick plate but all I could find today was 1/2" thick. It shouldn't warp much, anyway.

 

Interesting; Would that smoke? I have heard of doing that, but I am not sure I understand the concept. Or are the holes just in the end of the pipe? I guess I need to see a sketch or picture or something to understand exactly what's happening.

 

Sounds like a good idea, but I guess I have not really paid much attention to any stoves like that. I am sure I could do it, if I seen an example, or something to follow.

 

Ok, thanks

 

Ok, I watched a few videos of secondary air tubes. I get it, now, how they work. It looks like there is lots of experimenting going on, and lots of variations out there. I do see how I could do a simple pipe with holes and a damper on the end to regulate the outside air going in. I don't know if I need to take it that far for the occasional use in the shop, but I might just for the heck of it. With a damper I could always just shut if off if I didn't like it.

I would like to start with a schedule 80 stainless pipe or heavy wall square tube so it would last, and I can get that where I used to work. I might give it a try.

 

I'm in no hurry but I will be building a custom baffle for my Momma Bear here before the cold hits too. I'm no fab expert but I do have a welder and a good source for materials.

For mine, I'm thinking of either making the "shelf" out angle iron that will hold fire 6-8 bricks, OR, using the steel plate as shown above and putting a ceramic board or blanket on top. I don't know if either of there are beneficial but I know that secondary burn stoves (in addition to the secondary tubes) always have the overhead ceramic to hold the heat down.

I really like the idea of installing secondary burn tubes but that is likely out of the ballpark for me. A good smoke shelf should be all I need. Then, I just need WelderDave to learn me on how to operate this unit

 

You can do it. ESW has a hole pattern for the NC-30 on the spec. sheets. I did it for my old Timberline and it was worth the effort.

 

Our hunting cabin has a Grandma Bear that has been abused for 40 years. Several years ago a member pointed out that a baffle would increase heat output and burn times.
After doing some research and finding Coaly , I installed a baffle last year. I didn't follow Coaly's plans exactly.
I used the firebrick trick on the sides to support 3 pieces of heavy 4" x 1.5" channel. Now the front top gets much hotter than the back and we are burning less wood with more heat.
I don't know percentage but now, after the poker game and other shenanigans, the fire lasts until coffee in the morning and the cabin stays warm.
Working on a way easily install a secondary air system...

 

that's on the drawin board

 

Yep, I would think that would be a must do thing.

 

Geez...buy the pipe at half price and get a free stove! can't beat this deal with a stick!