Stihl 034 Super AV EQ

Yes. For high use/abuse plastic cages from 1125s and other models.

 

Score the bearing with a cutoff wheel then tap with a chisel. That should crack it and then pull off easy. Be careful not to cut too deep.

 

I just restored a puller of some sorts. I don't know if it will fit the race. The arms are quite wide and thick. I just checked and it was too short and the legs aren't quite right.

I just put the crank on the vise, had to tighten it up more than I wanted, tapped it a few times with my newly acquired brass hammer, and out it came. Yay. Thanks guys for the tips.

That sounds like a scary method to me!!

 

That "puller" is part of a tubing flaring tool kit.

 

I plan on heating up the case with a propane torch and then tap out the bearings on both sides using a socket a la this video.



I was also thinking of getting the harborfreight slide hammer and bearing tool.

Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Pc.

 

I made the mistake of buying one of those some years back...not completely worthless, but close.

 

Ever used it to try and get a chainsaw bearing out? What didn't you like about it?

 

Thanks. That must be for 3/4" or larger pipe because the jaws are big.

 

Tap the big bearing race out of the case, lay it over top of the inner bearing race on the crankshaft, squirt some grease in there and put all the balls back into the bearing. Once they’re all in on one side, you can space them out equally and then will have better odds of being able to tap the bearing all off at once with a hammer and punch. Or like mentioned, cut the inner race with a dremel cut off wheel and hit it with a chisel and it will break. In order to use heat, you’ll probably need an acetylene torch to heat the inner race up quicker so the heat differential will allow it to come off

 

No, 1/2" and down...there are other pieces to it.

 

Thanks. In post #143 I said I got it out by using the vise method and tapping with a brass hammer. It came out pretty easily actually.

Gotcha! Maybe those pieces are jumbled in the toolbox the guy gave me with like 4000 things in it.

 

Using heat to get the outer race out - do you recommend that? Or just tap it out? I don't want to risk messing up the case. I posted the video I was gonna follow in #145 - where you just heat with propane on the case......

 

I use heat to remove bearings, yes. They can be tapped out without it but I fear the removal of material if heat isn’t used to expand the mag.

The outer race can be removed by putting the bearing back together as mentioned above, heating the case or bearing pocket, then tapping it out towards the inside of the case with an appropriately sized socket.

If that doesn’t work, you can heat the case to 300+ and use a socket, washers to drive it out. Don’t damage the bearing area of the case.

 

Thanks. I will heat up the case and then I think I'm gonna try the HF tool - it's on sale today for $49.99 (vs $72.99) so why not. I can always return it if it doesn't work. I have a feeling it will work.

When you install the new bearings, does it really just plop right in there if you heat up the case and freeze the bearing? That would be lovely.

 

The flywheel side, yes. If you get the case hot enough. I don’t always freeze bearings since they form condensation quickly. I sometimes put them in oil if I do freeze em.
The PTO side of many pro Stihls have a steel insert in the casting. It sometimes complicates install due to expansion issues… I think. 1125s are the toughest, in my opinion. So… I get them VERY hot and typically freeze the pto bearing just for a little extra clearance. It’s not necessary, though.

Use the oil pump as a stop (critical) and be ready with washers and sockets in case things get stuck.

 

In my experience, Huskies are the easiest to drop bearings in hot cases. I’ve done 3/4 372s, a 262 and a 55… no problems.

My procedure involves a toaster oven and a heat gun. I get the cases hot and then target a bit more heat right at the pockets. With a gloved hand, I hold the case level-ish and drop the bearing in. Then I make sure it’s seated (easy on the fw side) and chill the bearing with some oil. Let everything come back to room temp if you’re going to pull the crank through.

 

I'm confused on how I'm going to do that. The tool I got is only for the clutch side though I believe it will be able to pull the crank through that bearing. Do I need a special tool for that?

Or do I do the clutch side first and then just tap the flywheel on or can I just install the flywheel on by screwing down that nut?

 

You have a couple options, then.

Get the bearings in the case. Do the pto first so everything can fully cool. Leave the oil pump on if the tool allows it. Pull the pto side of the crank through the bearing. Get your gasket, pins, and case screws ready.

If the tool doesn’t work for the flywheel side, then here’s an option-
Once the pto side is ready, heat the fw case and drop the bearing. Let that bearing soak up some heat and then put it through the fw side of the crankshaft (get some blocks so everything is in position). Push the case as far as you can by hand without sending it down crooked. Get things aligned and use your case bolts to carefully and gently pull the two halves together. It may be that you’ll need longer m5 bolts but I doubt it using the heat method. It usually gets ya fairly far on that crank shoulder. Tighten things up a bit then send in your alignment pins. Tighten everything and then center the crank with a poly hammer or punch.

 

There isn’t enough room on the crank stub to move the case (even with spacers). It’s possible on the pto side using the clutch and spacers.

I use sleeves made by Mattyo. They’re awesome and have been used for dozens of saws. Before owning those I used the heat method.

 

Thanks so much for laying out my options. That is super helpful and I'm sure it will help the next person who is looking to do it as well.

I have to clean the main case gasket - that thing was melted and disintegrated. Was gonna scrub it off using that stainless steel scrubber thing from the kitchen and some brake cleaner (good thing I have extra hahahahaha).

Based on videos I saw I can use any kind of oil to help put things back together since it will all burn up rather quickly anyways once it fires up, eh? I was planning on 5W-30 motor oil since that's what I have the most of. I also have 0W-20.