Stick(old maul handle) cut to the length I want and my kids sidewalk chalk. I can eyeball reasonably well but like taking the thought process out when running the saw down a tree. Limb wood I usually eyeball.
I picked up the Acc-u-mark Firewood Marking tool about a year ago. It actually works really well. I also demonstrated the usage on one of my later YT videos.
Fat Max tape. Measure and note the spot, hook the tape on my pants pocket and cut.....rinse, repeat until I don't feel like cutting anymore. If I'm feeling especially productivey, I'll keep the tape in my hand while cutting to avoid the extra move.
campinspecter uses a stick marked with tape at the length he wants cut. Today we used the 16" marked stick which does four lengths at a time. He lays it on the log and then uses the small saw to make cuts in the log at the marks. He then goes back with the cutting saw and starts cutting the log. Now I have been going out firewood cutting with him, I hold the stick in place and move it to the next section after the four cuts are done.
I made this magnetic 16" measuring stick after watching it on a YT video. The link to amazon was selling it for $25 and I figured I could make it for less than half of it. After a few minutes of searching I found the exact magnet and decided to go up a size. I'm glad I did - the bigger magnet stays put but still releases easily when you want to remove it. It sticks to the side of the chainsaw and then you just make a short cut and shift over and continue all the way down the log. Works just like the accu-mark. If I trim a long I trim to 16". Same for bucking. Anything else is eyeball (shorties for kindling, branches). This is the only picture I could find of it quickly. I'll take a picture of it on the saw tomorrow.
I've had a few get chewed up too. I usually use a small saw, keep sticking in my left hand, see where spot it a mark it, repeat. It's easy to hold stick and top handle together. Safety PO PO would probably give me a ticket though...
I marked both of my MS250S (1 16” and 1 18” bar) with a paint pen at 16”. I cut right to left when I can. Hold the saw over the log with tip facing left and mark lined up with cut end. Look at where tip is or occasionally I’ll blip the throttle and mark it with the tip. Step sideways to the left and cut. Rinse and repeat. Oddballs I used to leave a little long and throw them toward my “shop stove” pile which gets shorts and uglies. I’ve started cutting them off at 16s no matter what though this year and just keeping the shorts in a bulk firewood bag for the shop stove. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I cut to 16”, I have a Mingo marker and it works well but I don’t like looking at my stacks and seeing spray paint. I have a stack of red oak that I’ve been looking at for 2 years with yellow paint at the cuts. I don’t think I’m ocd but it bugs me. Lately I’ve been using a 50’ tape marked with 16” on center in red. Then mark with lumber crayon. Using the tape takes more time than the mingo but the finished product is perfect.
I just today ran across this picture on another site...zip tie on the CS handle, trimmed to proper length to indicate the firewood size you want...the price of admission it right, Ima try it out...
I was real fired up about the zip tie method until I realized that it'll only work if you have a good place to tie onto. If you can only tie onto the handle on the left side of the saw, you can only buck left to right. That only works for free and clear stems; I often buck one to a few rounds at a time in brush and vines and it, obviously, varies as to which direction you can go with your bucking. And even if you can tie a zip tie onto both sides of the saw, the tie spot on certain saws will leave quite a lengthy gap between 16 inches and the zip tie, making marking less accurate... depends on length of bar. If left to right bucking is fine, the zip tie on the handle on the left side looks like a terrific solution. The more I think about this, the more my top handle Echo 2511t is appealing, using a mark on the saw at 16 inches. As I have said, the issue with holding even a medium size saw like an 026 or 346 against the log to measure is the easiest solution, requiring no additional equipment, but my issue with lower back pain tires me out too quickly when lifting and holding the saw like that over and over for a cutting session. The 2511t is super light, plus it's a chainsaw! Can not only cut the gnarly stuff out of the way but also mark to buck in the same operation. I'd rather just do all of this with one saw but I am going to try this dual-saw method with the 2511t. I often just carry one saw into the woods on my Gator or ATV but taking two might just be beneficial.
Another morning gold star award for Lenny ! Right. Right. And right. Mark the 261, cut, rinse & repeat. Don't want or need anything on my saws getting in the way. No nothing on the saw.
