Thanks chris....I'm aware of the different intakes on the 30 (I've already tried putting alum. tape over the 2ndary, and small magnets over the "doghouse" feed holes) I'm really hoping the OAK reduces some of the cold air "hurricanes" in the house. Sitting in the kitchen, I can feel the cold/cool air moving past on it's way to the stove. I'm just wondering if it'll make much difference, since I can be in 2ndary mode within a few minutes with the primary almost completely closed. All that air has to come from somewhere to feed the 2ndary, so now I need another OAK for that.
Well, after getting home from Alpena, I realized I completely forgot to stop at the HD for the stuff I need. What a PITA. Forgot to take back the old oil to Wally world too. Wife and I stopped at one of her co-workers place on the way home and picked up 5 bales of straw for the garden, so at least I got that done. Oh, and went to DQ on the way home. The parking lot sucked the Jeep right in there. We had no choice.
If you don't have an OAK hooked up, the air your stove is using for combustion, and sending out the chimney, that volume of air use for the combustion is your precious heated room air you heated up with your wood that you worked and sweated to get. That air being sent out creates a negative pressure so naturally outside air comes in through every crack in your home. If you ever stood next to a chimney you know that volume of air is huge. Will your stove run better. It will if your house is very tight. If it isn't, then mostly no. So do you want cold air coming into your house via a OAK or do you want to sacrifice your precious heated room air for the combustion. So if your stove has to work hard to keep your house warm, then it should be an easy decision to limit the combustion air from cooling off your home. If it has lots of heat and don't mind the drafts, then don't bother.
Good thoughts Larry. Right in line with mine. Even if the stove won't run any better, it should keep the draftiness down (I hope). It's an easy enough thing to do in my situation. Now, where's the cold weather, so I can test?
To me, not wasting the air I paid to heat is the largest gain from OAK. Next is having more available warm air in the home so I don't have to run the stove harder to get the same level. Then there is that comfort thing about not having a draft. It is equivalent to have an exhaust fan running. Big thing with OAK. The entire length needs to be metal. No PVC ever. Back drafting has occurred causing PVC to melt. Don't let anyone ever try to convince you to use PVC. Yes, some people have. But some also have had bad experiences. It won't pass inspection if your inspector is worth his salt. The diameter of you OAK is determined by the length of the run to the outside and by the manufacturers specs.
This will be a short 5'-6' run of flex metal pipe. The intake is 3" so I think I'll stick with that. The thought I've had is that this should help to reduce wood use by making the house more comfy because of the "hurricane" reduction. Looks good on paper. We'll see how real life plays out. Stay tuned........... ETA: I like the exhaust fan thought. When I turn on the bath fan, the amount of air flowing under the door is amazing. If the window is open, there's an immediate flow into the room and out through the fan. Lots of air. Clears the mirror pretty quick.........clears other "things" too.
For sure Dave everything you've stated says you definitely need the OAK. But, where is the dairy queen in Alpena?
The DQ is in Hillman on the main drag. We had to go out (on the return from Alpena) past it about 4 miles to get the straw, then on the return through town, we got diverted into the parking lot and were forced to get sundaes. I had nothing to do with it....honest.
No doubt about it. There has just been too much time passed since I was in Hillman. Used to know lots and lots of folks there and the surrounding areas.
Sundaes, yum, If I let myself go, I get everything I can in chocolate. I just love chocolate, even the smell of it is comfort.
With a little creativity you could plumb the secondary intake off the oak as well. The secondary air is heated at the back of the firebox prior to expelling out the 4 tubes up top. I had asked about doing this at Englander didn't get a definitive yes or no more like a I suppose that could work response.
Possible liability issues, I suppose. I had actually considered making up a plenum to feed the primary and 2ndary, but decided against it for now. I'll with the OAK as designed.
I asked about this issue, ALL of the combustion air not being supplied by the OAK, can't remember if it was here or the other forum, but it seem to remember the answer is that it is required to be the way it is by regulations. Maybe @mike holton will chime in
The secondary air is a much smaller amount of air, and needs to be preheated to work properly, so keeping it "warmer" would be more gooder As for the OAK, Larry (Save $) and Mike Holton hit the nail on the head. An OAK allows you to not throw away the air that you have already paid to heat. Using an OAK will help reduce the cold air that infiltrates through the leaks in your doors, windows, electrical outlets (these let in more air than you think). Everything I have owned, I have ran without an OAK for a year, them installed one after. Every year I added an OAK it became easier to heat the house, and warmer farther back, because now your "just heating" the home. Rather than creating the negative pressure and drawing the cold air in from all the leaky/drafty spots. Bob mentioned the temperature of the incoming air having an effect? Having ran 4 different stoves, without and with OAK's? I don't see that as a valid argument. With a fire that is burning somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,200°-1,500°. The small difference in air temp of an OAK stove and a non OAK stove, won't matter. The fire doesn't care about the temperature of the air, it will quickly turn -5° air or 70° air into 1,400° at the same rate. Even if the 50°-70° difference did matter, now your 1,400° fire is only 1,330°-1,350°. Also, colder air is more dense. More molecules per cubic foot of air Here are a couple pics. I just used standard 3" rigid vent and a small piece of flex vent to go from rigid to stove connection. Pellet furnace (inside and out) And then the 30-NC...
Thanks Dex. Great info from someone who's done it. The goal is to maybe use a bit less wood because the house will feel more comfy w/o some of the drafts rolling through the house to the stove. Despite the living room being 70-ish, I feel cool because of those leaks. Old news, if you've been reading my other posts about that. I remember those pics, but I'm wondering why you took the term. out so far? I plan to attach a dryer vent hood term. right to the side of the house with the small mesh you sent me instead of the outflowing flapper.
I think I'm going to try to do a OAK.... But I'm going to have to go down into the basement before heading out...
Wife and I ordered new glasses when we were in Alpena the other day, so when they come in, I'll get the parts after we're done picking up the glasses. I need to make sure I can get my hands on a big enough bit or hole saw. I'd really rather not use a Sawz-all, although I've done that.
the secondaries rely on preheated air for optimal combustion, i suspect the biggest reason for using house air for secondaries is to ensure the air is hot enough to achieve this , pulling air for secondaries from outside could affect the performance in extreme cold situations , though it wouldnt necessarily cause any issues with the primary fire, the secondaries may not be able to heat suficiently in the manifold before entering the burn chamber.