Gotcha. I suppose that could work...you'll still need lots of support though...I'd guess a pier under every other joist. Or you could use these 2x4s to just make supports for each joist...screw them together like you planned, just cut one 5.5" shorter than the other...the short one goes under the joist, the long one gets screwed to the side of the joist. Each one sitting on a patio block or two...
Yeah, a 2x4 isn't quite 2x4. I'll do the issue by side joined to make stringers, unless 4x4's are less $ and available.
Horkn would plywood sandwiched between make it stronger? Yes BUT most wouldn’t bother or do it without PT plywood which in dark wet environment won’t last 2 years! double it up and be done. is it as good? According to structural engineer I used doubled 2 x4 for a roof post cause some rookie cut up an 8 foot post for blocking Engineer said it was about 12% weaker if the 4x4 was straight knot free with no cracks.. So effectively the same as in real life
Same for the (2) 2x4's...need to be straight/tight grained and no knots. One of my 80 YO 2x10 Doug Fir 1st floor joists broke a couple years ago...yup, right at a knot...fortunately it is only about 8-10" from a wall, so I was able to just put a jack post under it...good thing, because with furnace ducts running on both sides and under it, there is no way to replace it without a MAJOR project!
And 4x4 is ~15% weaker than a 2x6 too...so laminated 2x4s ~27% weaker than a 2x6? Sound right eatonpcat ? (Roof beam span chart)
brenndatomu I asked him that, about the knots. He said “not really if when you put them together, after determining crown, if you don’t overlap knots”. Horkn your shed will be good. Sorry for derail
All of my threads are derailments. Ok. Sammiching the 2x4's together with construction adhesive and screws. Got 1 done so far. It's really strong now. There's 3 cement/ block pilings under each center span.
Project is looking great so far, my friend! When you're all finished up, you can come down and help me build mine (yes, the one I've been wanting build for the last 12 years now), I'm just now finally getting back into this half built pizza oven project......
Pizza??? I'll be over once I'm done with my shed. Speaking of which.. I got the center supports almost all done. They are mega strong. Just gotta get those outer mid supports on. I've found that a car jack works great to lift each deck piece up a little bit to allow the boards to be tight when I let it down. I used a sealer on the plywood. That seemed to help. Eventually I'll use deck boards on the outer two bays like the center bay will be. Now not the time with shortages on the deck boards. I plan on working on it tomorrow until the rain arrives. The wife will go with me to Menards to pick out the color of the metal roofing. Then it will be about 2 weeks for that to arrive. By then, I should have the freaking for the roof done. Getting there.
If Scotty Overkill is serving pizza.., I'll beat You up there...lol...maybe he will throw a steak on the beautiful fure pit he has.....
Traditional “plywood” has cross oriented veneers. OSB (while not suitable for outdoor sammiching) approximates the strength of plywood in both directions due to its random chip orientation and is therefore the common choice for indoor sammiching.
Ok got some work on the shed done before the rain hit. Tomorrow evening I'll work on those outside supports. Then I can screw the floors down. After that, it's onto roof rafters or whatever you want to call them. I'll do the boards for the sides after the roof is up. That way I can have some shade.
So the roof supports for the steel roofing... How far apart so the joists go? The panels are 3' wide. I'm seeing 24" joist spacing for metal roofing. I also see 12" as spacing which makes more sense, especially seeing that will cover the spots where the roof panels overlap. 12" joist spacing sounds right. Attached is the info on the roofing. Just checking my logic with the group.
