I sharpen only Stihl 3/8 .50, full chisel chains at 60° 30° 0° as recommended by Stihl. They may cut a tad better at 10° angle but they seem to cut fine for me at the recommended settings.
Some of the stihl sheets I've looked at do in fact call for 60° 30° 10° for 33rs but I don't personally notice a difference either way. Maybe with a stopwatch cutting cookies. I use the same angles for 33rm also.
Now that I've said that, I may have gotten those numbers from the guide that comes with the grinder. Sometimes I'm so confused!
I did piddle around a bit tonight and...... I filed the bottom dead flat getting rid of the 4 points it sat on before. It's a lot less sloppy now. Then I filed off the powder coat from the bearing surface. It is much smoother operating now. And lastly I added a little more spring force to the pawl.
Wow...ok, I need a shipping address to send mine for tune up...lol...good job, my friend. I showed your post about the run out and how close you had gotten it, to my brother, he used to do machine work. He worked in N GA in the70's and 80's for Wabco/Terex, running a big lathe. They built big pan scrapers, and other earth moving equipment. He was impressed, he even asked what the beginning run out was...
Yeah, me too! Maybe a sideline for you? Then after you're finished you pack it and send it to huskihl to get the vice dialed in! Ahhh...the stuff dreams are made of!
Not sure exactly how much out it was when I started because I just kept playing with it until admittedly I got lucky. The motor shaft was pretty good although the tapped hole in the end is off center, trying hard to forget that. The die cast inner hub can be indexed around on the shaft along with indexing the wheel on the hub. Sharpie marks and numbers and start playing with combinations and tapping with a piece of wood. An thin old feeler gauge against the wheel with the indicator against the feeler gauge is what I used.
I'm thinking that dialing in the vise has a hand in hand relationship with the slop in the sliding plate. I'm working my way to that.
It's all good. I just wanted to see why you did not use the vise tilt. On my old grinder, I first did chains(Stihl) without the vise tilt. RM cut fine, but RS would not self feed. Some guys on here suggested vise tilt and I tried it and the chains cut good. My chains cut good on my old grinder, but with this new grinder they cut even better. I'll have to try a chain with out vise tilt. I really need to take a chain and test some different angles, and do some time cuts to see what works the best. Which what is fastest, may not be the most durable. I want the balance between speed and durability. The angles I currently use are 55,25,10.
I added 2 little pieces of rubber tubing to stop the outer vise jaw from moving up and down every time it clamped and released.
Interesting: Forester Electric Chainsaw Sharpener w/ Hydraulic Assist Bench or Wall Mount Looks like the Super Jolly, but fewer $$$
Looks like it with a different paint job. My guess they make them and brand them with any name requested if enough units are purchased. That or it's a China knockoff.
By the time you add $60 for good wheels, it’s a little less sweet. Totally depends on the quality though. I always thought the $80 ebay 511ax clone was a badass machine for the $