Summers heat 2400 sq.ft.

Have you tried putting in a pipe damper to slow the burn down and lengthen heat times.You may not need an Oak since your drafting well.Your current stove what is the area size it's supposed to heat ?

 

Yes I would not use any stove without a damper in the pipe. You may not need it but it could save you if you have problems.

it would be quite difficult to install an OAK on my current stove see the previous posts.

 

What I was saying is that if I got a new stove an OAK wouldn’t be a problem it install. As it might be in some installs.

 

Ya I use my damper on both stoves every time I lite up.It does increase my heat times and intensity.

 

So since your stove provides good heat get a new one that at least will heat the same square footage as the beast.If not you may end up with less heat and less wood consumption instead of the same or more heat and less wood consumption.

 

Yup perhaps you didn’t read the whole thread I don’t blame you. I was asking for input on a specific model. One of the issues I have with my install is heat loss to the foundation. Any stove new or old can’t compensate for that. So I mentioned I also had thought a bout tying a gassification boiler onto a oil boiler system that is currently in service.

 

Rich L hope that didnt come off like I was being a jerk. I was just trying to clear things up.

wifey always says my text/messages reads like I’m pizzed off, not my intention.

 

Your responses were good.I think your idea of more insulation in the basement will definitely cut down on heat loss at the foundation.

 

These things are really a turd?

 

That's the bigger model? Door issues was the main problem I think...at least after the other bugs were sorted out on early models...

 

Yes says 2400 sq.ft. For 5 balloons I could just Craigslist it If it’s a POS

 

True...is it scratched, or anything missing? Might be able to talk them down even more if so...

 

At that price I would buy one knowing about the issues. The issues are, 1- draft; I think that if one has a really good drafting chimney, that might not be issue or as bad of an issue. Part of my problem is that I have a through the wall system and that does reduce the draft. 2 - the damper control; for that, leave the knob off and use pliers to help close and open. 3 - The doghouse is too far forward in the firebox; that isn't as bad but it will burn up sooner and you will be stacking logs on top of it; hot fires will burn it away shortly. the poor glass retainers; those you could get a metal shop to make better retainers so the glass doesn't fall out; the retainers barely hold the glass in place. If you are paying over a grand for a new stove with problems, then yes. However, at the price shown, then I would say get it, replace the retainers, have a good strong chimney and you would probably be OK. The stove does heat well.

 

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I didn’t look close. I was on a secret squirrel mission on a run for work.

Woodwhore do I remember you posting you have one of these stoves?

 

I have also been told that installing a draft inducer will help. The main problem is loading the stove; that is when I tend to fill the house with smoke; at the time that the fire is low and you put in fresh wood. Fresh wood is always going to smoke a bit as it starts to heat up and catch fire; just no way around that. Usually when the smoke starts spilling out I will shut the door and wait for that split or two to catch up and start burning.

 

No, that was me. I will be happy to discuss this but we may need to go to PMs.

 

Ok thanks, I don’t want to sound out of line but I think we use stoves in a different manner.

 

I use the stove as my main heat source, I run the stove continuously through the heating season. I only said PMs because I don't want some member to start bashing me over the stove. I have learned some things about the stove; like dealing with the draft. This morning the stove was fairly cold. I have a flue thermometer that I use to help me with starting the stove cold. I have found that what I want to do here is to build a small fire that I can run hot to heat the chimney to get a good draft going; I know exactly where on the thermometer that lets me know that I can then fuel the stove and have the fire to burn. Now that is here with my chimney. I will take a photo of my stack and post it. Your draft may be very good and you will have less of an issue with smoke spillage and getting fires going. As for the glass retainers, go back, open the door and you will see what I mean. England Stove works didn't really seem to care. Compare the retainers on the NC-30 to the retainers on this stove and you will see what I mean, four small tabs that don't really grab the glass. For $500.00, and I am sure you can get it for that if you ask, you can fabricate or have a shop fabricate a better retainer. At $1400.00 on a new stove, I will baulk at having to reengineer and redesign a stove but for $500 I would say OK.

 

Again thank you. What I meant is our winter temps, chimney, as wood supply are very different. As I am in nh and you are in Virginia.

 

Well, yes, you might see a better draft; as there is a higher temperature differential; that does help. So the smoke spillage might not be an issue. As I said, I would grab that stove at that price even though I know the issues. I paid around $1400 so yes, I was a bit pizzed at the problems and the fact that the company had such a disinterest in the issues.