Old stove....

I just combed over the stove...no name, no tag, no plates, no place that looks like a name came off...anywhere. you may be able to tell from the pics, but it does have a jacket on both sides...also has a similar jaclet on the bottom of the stove. And there is a blower on the back.

 

Dont know what it might have been before. The pipe necks down because we had a chimney sweep line the chimney, it was cracked when we bought it. So i guess they had to use 6 inch, hence the neck-down in size going in the wall.

In nottoway county.

 

Most bucks can be either inserts or freestanders they still do it.

 

That may cause performance problems

 

Yeah...i had wondered about that, but i guess they had to.. Don't know if i could get another flange piece or whatever its called, the piece that comes off the stove, that is 6 inch on top and make it all 6. But i reckon it was made to use 8 inch.

Anyone have any ideas of new stoves that would work with my "setup"

 

Most modern stoves would work fine there

 

Ya the manual does show a glass door image.So your knock off idea seems valid.

 

It could also be an early unlisted buck I don't know. But if it is unlisted you can't assume it is the same as a listed one. You have to go to the default clearances

 

I agree that if it's unlisted or an unknown, you should go with the default clearances. BTY, the original Buck stoves did not come with glass doors. They were solid, as the picture shows. My brother bought the glass doors after he installed the stove.

And I don't mind the blower. It's worked good for 25 years or so...

 

When installed as a freestanding stove the blower is fine. As an insert it is horrible.

 

Guess I know several people that need to be arrested and flogged for their dissidence. Which code nazi office of the supreme authority should I report them to?

 

Just don't expect your insurance company to pay a claim if there is a problem. I have a stove in one of my garages I did it knowing the risks involved. I am ok with insurance not covering that structure or its contents. But there is no way I would do it in my business shop or the garage where I park my personal vehicles. It just isn't worth the risk.

For the most part no one will make you follow code. But if anything ever happens there are consequences for ignoring them

 

Even though it's an old version of the manual that I gave a link to earlier, they still refer to nfpa 211 as a reference...

I could see a lot of problems with that too, but a friend has been using one for about 25 years, as an insert. He pulls it every fall and cleans things up(including the chimney), and oils the motor. I realize that he's just one person, and he does the needed maintenance(which many won't do).

 

Pulling one when it is actually hooked up right is a real pita.

 

I'm going to try to get this stove up and running...not sure when i can get a new one and need a heat backup plan soon.

There is no fire brick in this stove. Should i go get some of the thin bricks and try to at least line the bottom? Should i try setting some up on the sides? Or sand in the bottom?

I am going to measure where the stack meets the stove to know which gasket i need and try to order. Wish it was something i could do/use that would last sufficiently that would be easier than ordering that and putting it in (if the cement i bought will crack due to heat fluctuations)....

 

Buck stoves and most of the copy's didn't use firebrick so there would be nothing to hold them in place on the sides. And Durance cement will not hold up if used to fill gaps. Can you post a pic of the problem area?