The hole in the thimble is larger than the supervent. Am I suppose to try and float the chimney in the thimble somehow or just leave the gap at the top. I am sort of disappointed with the supervent but I had to go the cheapest route and that was supervent. That is a rather large gap at the top where cold air can enter. Or am I missing something that did not come in the through-the-wall kit?
I managed to call Selkirk and they told me that the chimney pipe should float in the opening and that I should use silicone caulking to seal the gap.
The funny thing is that I watched their video and they show inserting the pipe, then sliding the plate that the chimney sits on up to the chimney and leveling it. So how in hades am I suppose to float the chimney in the opening during installation?
I was hoping that someone on here had done a supervent through the wall installation. I need to get this done ASAP. I am sitting here wasting time, Selkirk is a joke for help. I guess everyone is working or something but I need to be getting those brackets installed.
I called Selkirk back and this time I asked to speak with a technician. The man I talked to this time told me that the pipe should rest on the bottom of the thimble and that one uses high temperature silicon caulk on the top and sides sealing the gap. He said that this gap is to allow expansion of the pipe and that the caulk provides a flexible joint. So now I am good to continue. Lost a few hours on this and daylight is precious with winter solstice approaching.
Yeah, I don't think it should matter much. What is important is that you have some rise in that horizontal run. One quarter inch per foot IIRC. I don't think you have to go crazy with red RTV or anything like that. GE Silicone II has a temp rating up to 450. If the outside of class A pipe gets that hot, you have other, more urgent problems
Glad you finally got to speak to a tech. I used some sort of Rutland product to seal the outside gap. Whatever you use, make sure it is flexible in cold temps.
