Previously I had been having a guy at work sharpen all my chains for me and he is really good (Actually they are the best chains I have ever cut with) I have been trying my hand at sharpening my own lately just because it's more convenient. It always seemed like it took a week or better to get my chains back and something always happened during that time period like I needed a sharp chain..... Anyhow I have a few questions and figured the experts here could help out. 1) What do you reccomend using to sharpen chains. Right now I am using an Oregon sharpener that clamps on the bar and sets the angle with a file. 2) When I get the chains sharpened they seem to really bite good however when I sharpen them they seem to throw nice chips but seem to lack the bite that I get with his. especially at higher rpms. What would cause this? 3) Can I just file down the raker to get more bite? Any other tips and tricks would be appreciated! Thanks
Definitely check your raker height. Should be .023 to .025" below the edge of the cutter. At least that's a good place to start.
Yes, check raker height... Also... He may be putting more hook on the tooth than what your file guide is set for... Try setting the file a little deeper in the gullet of the cutter before just taking the rakers down too much. That will help with self feeding and keep it smoother, as opposed to ripping like a ditch witch... Make sure that no more than 20% of your file is above the top plate of the cutter.
Clamp your jig on a new sharpened chain & set it for the same angle he's using. Look close to see how your file fits in the cutter. Nothing says you can't sharpen an Oregon chain to a sharper angle, Try 30° like Stihl recommends instead of the Oregon 25°. I bump the rakers after a few sharpenings. Helps noticeably . Chain type ? File size ? PS: My test of the Stihl RS & Oregon LPX. Stihl RS wins, not by a lot, but is better IMO Better bite & faster cutting. It's fire wood, don't worry to much
I recently a Stihl 2 in 1 file (Their version of the Pfred CS-X filing system.) It makes it simple for those of us with filing challenges. It has guides which rest on both the cutter you are filing & the cutter in front of it to accurately hold the file the correct height in the tooth,has a flat file which adjusts the height of the raker at the same time, & the handles are angled to help you keep your file angled right. I really like the way it works & it is much faster. It is a little pricey at $40 but if keeps you from ruining your chains & saves you from paying someone else to sharpen you chains, you will regain your investment back quickly. ** Note ** you need to know exactly what type of chain you are sharpening as they are chain type specific. Because of this your dealer will probably not have them in stock. It took my Stihl dealer 3 days to get one in - Not bad at all & no shipping charge! You can order the Pfred CS-X off the internet but then you will be paying shipping.
Looks cool http://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Produ...ccessories/21733-1649/2-in-1-File-holder.aspx video:
Just remember... As the cutter is filed back, the 6 degree angle of engagement is the most important issue to good cutting chains... By whatever means necessary...
Oregon sharpening angles: What angle is that? If using a file Is that angle set by diameter of the file? or If using a file guide, is that angle built into the guide? (up angle on the file)
Not listed in that chart Dave. Hedgerow is talking about the angle the cutter sits at in relation to the surface of the wood.
I did sharpen to the same angle ,which was 30 degrees, however it still wasn't quite the same. I am going to adjust the rakers tonight touch up the chain and see how she cuts this weekend.
What master mech referred to... So when the tooth is at 80-90% size, .025 may work well, but when the tooth is filed back to say 10-20% life left, you may need as much as .035 drop from cutting corner to raker to achieve the desired 6 degree angle of engagement. Sorry... I'm terrible at explaining things from a keyboard.
