In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Those of you who noodle

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by Yawner, Dec 6, 2022.

  1. Yawner

    Yawner

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    So, noodling big rounds, I sometimes noodle all the way through a big round but in an effort to 'save' a sharp chain, I sometimes noodle part the way down and then split it with a maul and wedge. I have used plastic felling wedges but usually opt for the steel wedge. Problem is, my steel wedges are not as long as I seem to need for this task. I guess my longest steel wedge is about eight inches. I often drive that into the round all the way and the round still has not completely split. They sell long plastic felling wedges, do you think that would help? Or what have you found to work? And how deep do you noodle? Half way, less, more? I am mainly doing this on oak. My experience is that I seem to have to go about 2/3 down with the noodle cut. Sometimes, I have just said heck with it, I'm almost there, and I go all the way, lol. Or do you just noodle all the way? Any thoughts on this?
     
  2. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I split with wedge and sledge when I was a kid. Multiple wedges were the key. I doubt a plastic wedge would hold up to splitting.
     
  3. Sirchopsalot

    Sirchopsalot

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    If I am noodling because the pieces are knotty or unsplittable, then I head all the way through and leave the pieces bigger for burning
    When I did noodle due to sheer size of the log, then part way, stand it up, wnd split as normal.

    I think you're doing a lot more work noodling and then wedging the side open, vs noodling and standing it up and splitting..

    Oak tends to be fairly brittle, so splitting with wedges or maul should be straight forward..
     
  4. Sandhillbilly

    Sandhillbilly

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    I usually go almost all the way through ‘ceptin for the last inch or two to stay out of the dirt. Plastic wedges, sometimes 2 stacked together if need be. Usually dealing with standing dead elm. I would think oak would be easier
     
  5. Chud

    Chud

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    My experience on most big oak rounds is the halves fall away without cutting all the way through. I’m guessing 1/4 inch left, or I use the bar to finish the work if they don’t fall away. If either of those don’t work roll it and finish cut.
     
  6. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    I go most of the way, roll it 180* and finish with the saw so i dont hit the ground. Sometimes ill go 3/4 way, tip the round on end and split with isocore/X27 etc.

    I have my own "kerf keeper" wedges i make from two by lumber.
     
  7. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    Sometimes ill cut a kerf in the top and sledge and wedge. If the wedge keeps popping out. Usually when noodling is not an option...cutting roadside IMG_0978.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2022
  8. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I will do this but hit it with a maul. You must be doing some really twisted and knotty stuff.
     
  9. oldspark

    oldspark

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    I agree with the previous comments, if you cut it far enough a regular wedge should finish it easily. Those noodles make great fire starters.
     
  10. jo191145

    jo191145

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    I keep no wedges or sledge in the processing area. I use the lazy man’s noodling method. Cut a horizontal noodle down low. Then straight down from the top. Never have to roll the round, touch the ground or clog up with noodles.
     
  11. WinonaRail

    WinonaRail

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    I noodle 2/3+ of the way through, roll over and finish cutting from where I left off. Easy peasy.
     
  12. KSPlainsman

    KSPlainsman

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    If I'm noodling, I just go all the way.

    What kind of ateel wedges are you using?
     
  13. Erik B

    Erik B

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    I was doing a lot of noodling on a big oak that had blown down. I noodled down to a point where I had 2-3 inches to go. I tolled the block and split it with a maul.
     
  14. buzz-saw

    buzz-saw

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    Weld a hunk of flat bar stock on the back of the wedge as an extension.
     
  15. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I cut as close as possible to the ground, hammering wedges as I go. If they don't get it done, because some of the biggins I cut cannot be rolled or moved, I take a long prybar and use leverage to get pieces apart.
    Here you can see it leaning against the log.
    [​IMG]

    This pic shows some wood still attached to the base. Pry bar was able to break the piece off. It also shows a chunk of wood I laid down for when the pieces did fall. It helped me w/ getting manageable pieces cut w/out touching dirt with the chain.
    [​IMG]
    I've been through a couple giants. Massive 118yr old + Oak base
    One important thing to me is, once bucked into a "round", make sure it doesn't flop flat. It's hard to dice up like that as I do not hand split. I use the high horsepower available to me as a "Husky guy" and let the saw do the work. :rofl: :lol::smoke:
     
  16. buzz-saw

    buzz-saw

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    Well that is funny.:whistle:
     
  17. T.Jeff Veal

    T.Jeff Veal

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    ^^^^^
     
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  18. Colonel428

    Colonel428

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    I noodle a lot too. First cut is to split a round in half. Then I lay the two halves cut/face side down on the ground and butt them up to each other so I have two half moons side by side with a small valley in between them. Then I roll the next round up onto one side of the half moon until it nestles into the "valley". This keeps my chain out of the ground and I can cut all the way thru each round. Just a way to elevate the rounds and get them off the ground...
     
  19. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Have you tried driving 2 wedges together? That is, both wedges in the same place. Many times this will get the job done nicely. When I used to hand split the wood I had 3 wedges. If one did not split it then I'd use the other 2 as a double. It worked nicely.
     
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  20. jrider

    jrider

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    And who said length doesn't matter?