Help installing this Fisher stove

Any insight installing this stove, I'm thinking I need something fireproof to finish this corner. Does this gas line need to come out? I think it's off at the main, while the NG furnace will come out. Thank you.

 

Looks pretty close to the insulation.
Does the stove have a plate giving minimum clearance numbers?
I think I'd pull the line at the outside elbow and cap it.

 

I'm assuming I'll need 18" minimum from combustibles so covering the insulation is probably in order. No factory clearance specs on the stove.

I found this;
36" from rear corners and 46-1/2" from the top pipe to combustibles. I'm not sure what to use to cover the corners?

 

Looks like a steel building with insulation. Is the stove going right where you have it? How tall are the ceilings there? Do you have plans to run the flue straight up and out or through the wall and up the outside?

 

My plan is to place the stove in this corner, I'd remove the NG vent piping and replace with stove pipe straight up the roof, not sure about ceiling height about 15' or so.

 

Keeping a single wall flue pipe in the building all the way to the roof may be a good thing, you'll continue to get the heat from that pipe all the way up. I'm just not sure if the temps would be hot enough to keep creosote from forming the way the class A pipe would.
I think putting up some form of non combustible cement board or something similar may help with clearances around the stove near the insulation.
Just out of curiosity, how big is the area this space building is to be heated by the Fischer? 15' ceilings are tall, lots of sq ft.

 

Lots of cu.ft./volume.
Yep, sounds like it may be a lot of space to heat, even if somewhat insulated.
Code or no code, I'd do Class A pipe through any ceiling penetration and out the roof.
MISHMH is right, the single wall might give you more heat in the space, but the downside may be a cooler exhaust and possible drafting issues until the pipe is well heated.
Then, there's the creosote issue as well.
Is the "ceiling" insulated?

 

The shop is 30'x40' fully insulated,1200 sq ft. The Fisher is rated to heat 2000 sq ft.

Looking an install kit like this?
DuraPlus Cathedral Ceiling Chimney System Kit - 8" Diameter
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/s.nl/it.A/id.145526/.f

 

Beautiful.
My pole barn is the same size, with 9' ceiling, except I put a +90 furnace in there.
Still can't afford to run it full time with the price of gas (and that's the cheapest option other than firewood).
As was mentioned, either put up some "cement board" or pull the stove out. You could also fab a heat shield for the back of the stove, or put another board behind it spaced out from the wall an inch or so.
Air gaps are great for keeping heat at bay.

 

I think there is another can of worms to open up here. Residential square footage and commercial cubic footage. 8-9' residential ceilings vs. a 15' commercial ceiling. I think the 2,000 sq ft rating you speak anout on your fischer is for residential. You have a lot of open space to heat. I'd be curious how this works out.

 

Yep. What's the insulation in there? Also, ceiling height? It makes a difference.

Fully insulated......I don't know what that means unless I have an R value.
Give us some more info. Unicorn1.
I'd just hate to see you do all this work and still have a cold shop.

 

At best only the upper half of the building would be warm, the concrete and ground level might suffer more.

 

The non insulated slab will always be a heat sink, main purpose of the wood stove is the noise level will be low. I'm not sure of the R-value, an industrial fan will pull the warm air from the ceiling. Like everything in life, this will be a trial and error venture. I still have the salamander diesel heater if needed. Thanks everyone.

 

Please keep us up to date when you start burning in the space building. I'm curious how well it will work for you.
Good luck!

 

Dave, what did you think of the flue run from the stove to the roof? All single wall or single into Class A to avoid a cold flue?

 

The one issue I see is I want to use the existing hole in the roof from the NG furnace. This will put it almost exactly where it sits now. I might have to cut another hole and place the stove elsewhere. The other half of the shop has the NG furnace already removed but it's in the same location as this one just on the west wall corner.

 

I suppose if you were forced to, you could use some offsets to accomplish the location on the concrete your looking for. 2 45s should do the trick