WS Absolute Steel Door Adjustment

So in the past season I think my gaskets may have compressed and I need a door adjustment. I can't find anything in the manual, but seems to me there might be a cam of some sort to position to get a tighter close as the gasket will surely compress over time?

WS isn't open but I'll call tomorrow if no one else knows either. I played with the screw bolt thinking I could make an adjustment but I think all I really did was make the handle more difficult to operate.

All else about this stove has been excellent. I forgot over the summer how much heat this baby throws. During my cleaning this year I found that the 90' fitting into my thimble had a slight 32nd of an inch airline air leak about 3 inches long in one of the adjustable/rotatable sections. I replaced that with another I had and noticed my glass is staying cleaner/clearer. Of course this year I'm finally on a 2+ almost 3 year plan, so the quality of my mainly oak supply has morphed from good/very good to excellent. I've been noticing it in the heat output of my upstairs main living area Fireview as well.

 

I don’t see any adjustment on our AS.

I’ve replaced the PH door gasket a few times (don’t do too much of stretching or bunching!). My last time (success!) I erred on the side of bunching, and dry fit it to test the latch.

 

I'LL be following this one. I'm getting an AS in about a week. I am hoping for extreme success. Have you heard back yet Hippie?

 

Yeah, if I loosen the handle's nut I thought there might be a cam'd, adjustment in there similar to the cam'd lever for the bypass door, but not the case I don't think. It's interesting that the gasket still looks pretty new, I don't really run this all that often, not 24X7 at all like I do with the Fv.

I put a piece of news paper in there and it doesn't hold tight.. i can pull it out, but I can see where that gasket is going to compress some more too. I just though there might be an adjustment like there is on the Fv.

 

I'm calling this morning. But please don't be alarmed, It's not really leaking air or anything like that. I might have been a little vigorous last year using the handle lever a bit to strongly when closing the door and compressed the gasket more than necessary. The more I get used to this stove the more I like it!

 

Thanks. I am not too concerned. I like this feedback alot. I have a tendency to reef down on my stove doors. I try not too, but..... I have read you and flamesteads reviews. I thank you guys for taking the time.

 

let us know what you find out!

 

I just talked to WS and there really is not adjustment on these doors. The door gasket is almost 3/4" wide and just mates up with the door opening, the door lever is a large thing, and it is a very solid close. However I prolly was fairly vigorous closing it. I did note that the bolt/nut that provides the pivot of the lever could be turned by my fingers on the nut.. and I didn't like the looks of that, and there was a very small amount of play in the actual handle itself. So I tightened that up screw/nut snug using an open end wrench. Not too much, but just so the screw/net can't be turned by my fingers. When I close the door all the way, the gasket is definitely air tight. A cigarette lighter doesn't flicker at all anyplace around the door, but it isn't as snug as last year when the stove was new.

The gaskets do compress, as they should. I've just gotten to the point where they are fully compressed. I probably was using a bit more muscle than I needed to closing the door last year. The handle acts enough as a lever to lend itself to that. It's about 6 inches long and you close it with downward force.

I would just suggest that other users be conscious of this and not be like me and use gorilla lug not force closing the door.. it's closing plenty tight enough with medium leverage. You'll get the feel of it quickly enough.

PS to tighten that screw/nut door handle a tad it is a 13mm open or box end wrench and large phillips head screwdriver.

 

Thanks for letting us know. I will definitely leave the three foot length of cheater pipe in the shop! I guess you don't have to replace the gasket.

 

No, I don't need to replace it, but it isn't as good a seal as it was new. Like I said, it's easy to over do the close tightness, with that big handle.

 

Maybe I will grind the base down, and stick a short elk antler on it. Maybe a little bit less leverage will help. The levers look a little star treky too me.

 

Pretty, when did it show up? Or is that pic taken at the factory?

 

That is just a image off their website. I am getting the exact stove except for a right side door. I wanted a plain stove, but my wife thought differently.

 

Our absolute us suppose to ship end of this week. As soon as I install that stove, I'm going to rebuild my 1989 englander. I'll admit that I'm excited about the AS.

 

Rolling flames from the cat and secondary flames all going at once. This will get you warm.

 

See, that is a nice stove! It doesn't seem emasculated (if you know what I mean).

 

It may look awkward, but Ive never once needed to use the fall away tool that they give you to open the stove. It definitely gets hot, but its never burned me. It seems to shed heat quite well.

 

Good to know. I've noticed that high temp epoxy still gets brittle with too much heat.

 

JUst came across this discussion of door gasket material density, in the Ideal Steel thread.

https://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/attachments/image-jpeg.85696/

Apparently, as I read this, the door gasket material sometimes has different densities. Sometimes not providing enough seal. The fix it seems was to add star washers behind the gasket, between the gasket and the door channel, to push the gasket out a bit for a better seal. Also, a work around is to "fluff" the gasket material by squeezing with a pair of pliers I believe, to decompress the gasket.

I'm not really experiencing any leakage around the door, but I will probably pick up a gasket kit next time I'm in Lebanon, and install it prior to next season.

 

I didn't use pliers. I put my welding gloves on and worked my way around the gasket just pinching and pulling at it ever so slightly. It tightened up considerably

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