There are many ways to store and dry wood. I'm an advocate for drying outside and top covering, but I respect any and all opinions. For us, it was time to spend a small amount of time and money to build a shed. Here's a sneak peek... very much unfinished:
Aftee battling setback codes, getting a variance, and accumulating materials, we could start. I'm lucky enough to have good Mennonite friends that work for a local barn building company. They save barn tin scraps and cover sheets (material that covers new tin deliveries) for me. Posts- 4x6 treated posts rated for ground. They're called "pole barn" posts up here. Trying for 42" w a skidsteer auger: At the bottom of the hole we use a concrete block and a full 80lb bag of concrete. The posts are then leveled and a string system is used to align the structure (vids on YouTube of the process--- using pole stakes and string)
The footprint area was stripped of topsoil and then built up with compacted shale fill. A Kubota svl90 on rent for $28/hr was the ticket. After setting poles it was time for headers. A laser level gives you a perfect level line on each post. After marking this line on all sides, every measurement is taken from the line.
My Mennonite buddies helped for setting poles and rafters. Rafters: 14ft rough cut hemlock from a local sawmill. Headers: true 2x12 recovered from a house demo Y braces, base, roof purlins: treated lumber from a deck demo
Looking Good! Years ago when I built my pole barn/garage the building codes dept. wanted poured concrete for the base of the hole. When the inspector came out he said he would have accepted the way you did it! Gary
Rafters at 2ft center. Span was under 10. Birds mouth cut into each, tail cut close to proper angle. 2/12 pitch (well, close)
Purlins are 5/4 board from the deck. With good quality 2x8 rafters at 2ft center we figured to be good here. Tin was all white on top, but had to piece a few in. We use cross bracing til the post set cures, side skirts are in, and maybe til the tin is on. They're extra insurance.
Nice job , I'm sure you will love it :stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke: Re purposing materials is a great way to do it and saves ya a bit of When ya get all done you can help me build mine
The front overhang is 3ft ish. The back is 1ft ish. The rafter tails will get 5/4 facia and a gutter later this fall. The front will get a treated facia and the header and bracing may get tinned proper.
I hated tin after this one. Each piece I cut with tin snips rather than a saw... don't ask lol. Some guys measure for the screw holes, I snap chalk lines (don't use red chalk).
You know it! Reason being the extra cost of the floor and the dead weight load required by the wood. Many threads on here and other sites referenced joists breaking or sagging-- pallets are built to bear weight and are modular; if one breaks, fix or replace for free. Just get good pallets.
The location for the overlap is important. Typically you'd like the overlap to be placed so your predominant wind blows over it. The exception being "eye" tests from the road or house. Since some of this tin was rough, we overlapped one way on the roof, then the other way on the back wall.
Few types of trim to use if ya want. I had 30ft of this leftover from my pole barn build two years ago. It's meant for the skirt trim but can be used as base. Z trim. I got off color j channel for half price from the tin shop's "seconds" pile.
Purlins/skirts are all rough cut hemlock 2x4s. The base is obviously treated. All measurements taken off the aforementioned level lines--- handy as heck.
Gravel (crusher run) in and around the shed. Dumped by the skiddy and wheelbarrow, rough spread w shovel and rake. No laser here, just rough.
