Wood Shelf Revitalization

In December, I started taking out an old built-in workbench and enclosed shelving system. They were old, water damaged, and in my way of taking a wall out. When I started tearing out the enclosed shelves, I realized there was a stand-alone shelving unit enclosed within an outer shell. I was able to get them out in one piece (a minor miracle with all the nails and crud attached) and this is what they looked like.



The bottom 16" or so was very water damaged and the left side was crumbling. I was going to throw them out, then decided to see if I could save them since the rest of it was still solid and sturdy. They are made from two 15" planks on the back, and 12" planks for the sides and you just don't see stuff made like that anymore. I don't build, but have reconditioned several pieces of wood furniture before, so this intrigued me.



I set them aside, while I completed other projects and today I decided to start in on the rejuvenation (picture above is from today, but shows the water damage nicely).

I started cutting on the side that was in the worst shape, continued onto the back, and finally cut thru the second side.





Here is their final height.



Now, I just have to figure out how to clean the 55 years of crud off the wood. Then figure how to finish it. I am unsure if I will white wash, stain and polyurethane, or use an outdoor semi-solid stain. I will know more once I can see what the grain looks like. The back side is all rough cut, so I may just seal that and call it good. I will probably also attach wheels to the bottom of the lower shelf - I have recently found the joys of being able to move everything out of the way dang near effortlessly .

Anyone have any suggestions, or thoughts they would like to share?

 

Ah, right up my alley. I like to see the grain, especially if it is rough-cut and not planed. I helped my brother-in-law build this book case using rough pine from the sheathing on a cottage. It was very lightly sanded with an orbital sander with 220 grit I believe. I mean very light. So the high spots took a little sanding and a bit of the crud was left in the low spots. We brushed it with a medium stiffness poly brush like a deck scrubber to loosen the dirt. My dust collector and respirators were used because of the fine dust.

After that it received a few coats of semi-gloss poly. All the water and bug damage was left in place as well as a few nail heads. The nails were countersunk so the sander would not take the light rust coat off them. We poured the poly into a small disposable bowl so we would not contaminate the clean can of poly. We used a wide disposable hog bristle brush and went to it. The dry wood drank up the poly. I am looking forward to see what you do with it. I also like that clamping straight edge. I've never seen one like that.

 

I spent about 1.5 hours. First washed it down with Simple Green (a couple of times), then used water with lemon juice in it for a couple more washes. Lemon oil is good for cleaning and shining finished wood, but leaves a light residue, of which I don't need at this point. I usually use orange oil mixed with grapeseed oil for cleaning/moisturizing/conditioning wood so you are on the right track.

 

That looks great! I can probably get by with a light sanding on the outside, but some of the shelves have dark can rings (maybe from dripping stain or paint or oil) so I'm wondering if I should do something different with those.

I was noticing all the holes from nails/brads etc on the outside, thinking that I would have to sand the bejesus out of it and then fill the holes before doing anything else, but you may be onto something - I love that look. I still have more cleaning (the brush is a great idea - I'll get one tomorrow), but need to let it dry out to see where it's at at this point.

Thanks for the suggestions and pictures!

 

That was a great way to keep the saw going straignt (I'm challenged that way ). I got it at Harbor Freight with a coupon that made it somewhere around $6-8. Bought it last month with no real plan, just thought it looked handy when I saw the coupon. Worked great!

Thanks for that tip! That is the second time I've heard of boar's bristle brush use and can't find them at local hardware store. Will see if I can get them online.

 

They are the wood handle ones at H. D. with whitish yellow bristles. The cheap disposable ones. The hold oil finishes pretty well. Cheap too.

 

Just found on my google search that they are also called China bristles. Well dang, they have those at the local hardware store, just the help doesn't know that they are boar's bristles. Can't blame them, they are young, I' just learned that in my 50's

 

I vote for leaving the character in place. I have a piece of furniture with an old square inkwell stain. It can never be removed, but it is part of the story of the desk.

 

If you try that, use mostly grapeseed oil with just a little orange essential oil. The grapeseed oil is very light and will soak in to provide the conditioning, the orange oil provides the cleaning and shine. Can even use that combo on wood floors; I tried it last year and it worked great without any residue to trap dirt. I need to do my floors again - the pellet stoves are really good at drying out my floors!

 

You're right - it is an older piece and should look it. Plus, it will be in my work shop so a bit of character will be good!

Here is the first piece I reworked sometime in the 90's. Work was throwing it away and I claimed it. It was painted brown and I sanded it down hoping it would have good wood underneath. Stained it and put on several coats of polyurethane and haven't done anything since but wipe it down with a damp cloth. Nothing fancy, but a nice strong and sturdy table that has seen a lot of abuse and can hold a lot of weight. Up until two weeks ago I was using it as the base to my miter saw.

 

Went thru your link in your signature Jon, and you've done some really nice work!

 

Thanks for that. I'm on a salvaged wood kick right now. I have bigger furniture pieces that I made.

I have this nice nice mahogany writing desk from the early 1900's that needs a full restoration once I get my shop cleaned up. It has the original ink well in the pull out drawer. The drawer top lifts up to store paper.

 

That will look really great when you have worked your magic on it!

 

When we cleaned out my BIL's cleaning supplies, there was Murphy Oil Soap in his stash. It said it was to be used for cleaning wood. How well does it work and does it leave a polish behind?

 

Yeah, it is good for cleaning finished wood but when I last used it (90's), it left a sticky residue. Maybe I didn't' use it correctly (I don't read instructions sometimes) as I've heard others rave about it.

 

I got back to this project yesterday. It was a nice day; 50's, sunny and a bit breezy - perfect for taking the shelves outside for sanding. I used the advice fishingpol gave on amount of sanding to do on the back and top, since those were rough-cut. Even left the light blue paint stains on there (very light - like someone brushed up against a painted object, the brushed up against that board). Also just did a light sanding on the sides, only a little on a couple of the shelves, and left the stains to give it character. I brushed off the majority of sawdust then used the air compressor to get rid of the rest.

Took it back into the basement and got 2 coats of 3x thick poly on the back, top, bottom and sides. First time I've used this poly and was surprised by its appearance. It looks like, and has the texture of, slightly dilute cream frosting, or maybe gluish type. Had a slightly different smell also - not as strong as I am used to. Nice and thick and the boar's bristles worked it into the cracks, holes, and grain nicely. Feels like a nice solid amount that will really protect the surface.

Here is the back of the unit - the paint isn't really visible but appears as a dulling in the left board in the picture.



And the top



Letting it sit for at least 48 hours before I turn it over to do inside and the front edges. Should be plenty dry by then so that the wood scraps it lays on won't mar the polyurethane too badly.

 

Looking good. That product is water-based. It will smell different that oil-based poly. You should be able to use a regular brush and wash it out.

I like the oil-based poly that has the amber color to it. I'll use a few coats of shellac to build up color if necessary. It does have a stronger odor and longer drying time.

I'm looking forward to see it finished.