Whitfield WP-2 help needed

I had a small fire in the rear of my stove. I'm needing a wiring diagram to get my wires repaired. I'm at a stand still at the pressure switch through my new auger motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Mike, welcome to the forum!

The person you need to talk to is Snowy Rivers ....hopefully she'll respond to this post.

 

Here's a WP-2 wiring diagram. Hope it is the one you need. Welcome!!!

 

Welcome to FHC MikeB
Best of luck on fixing the wiring

 

Thanks I'm trying lol!! I'm pretty much there I'm gonna try to remove the current sending relay as well but I'm basically just trying to fix the wires to the Auger motor through the pressure switch and the inlet air switch. I'm gonna study the diagram I was sent but it just doesn't look like the right one compared to looking into the back of the stove. Thanks

 

I'm gonna have to re look at the back of my stove I just get stumped on the pic on the diagram it just doesn't look like the wiring on my stove. I've seen a few pics posted of auger motors but they cut off before I could see where they went. My stove is a Whitfield WP2 advantage ser# 20661 but diagram looks noting like the back of the stove I work on fork truck wiring everyday so I'm not normally confused well mostly anyway!! Lol thanks

 

The wiring goes through the pressure switch to the auger motor.

Pressure switch is a normally closed switch and opens if the vent/exhaust becomes plugged.

The inlet air switch (snap switch) is an over temp switch that stops power in the event of a back burn.

There are two over temp switches on the stove.
The other one is on the drop tube.

What caused the fire in the cabinet ???

 

Just checking the serial numbers on these stoves
You have an Advantage 2 T (serial # above 18145)
The schematic shown earlier in this post is for the much older units.

Yours has a self contained control board and does not have the relays, resistors and such as in that schematic.

Actually that system was far more robust and caused less issues.

 

The wiring on these is pretty straight forward, although it can be a bit of a jumble in there.

You should be able to trace the wires back to the board and just replace with new leads.

If you are still having issues snap a piccy and post
I have a stove identical to yours I'm working on and can snap pix and post if need be.

Snowy

 

Here is the schematic for your unit

This should look just like your wiring.

Good luck

Snowy

 

Happy Birthday MikeB!

 

x2

 

Good call Imac....truer advice apparently could not have been given!!

Welcome Mike

 

Only cause I'm Whit freak

Just happen to have a factory service manual on the puter too.

 

Snowy, I knew you were the person to call.

 

Thanks Snowy I'll snap a pic in the morning. The fire was caused by excess kerosene being used to saturate the pellets one day when it was fighting me to stay going. The wires to my controll panel are all good. The wires from the vacuum switch to the switch by inlet air tube (below and behind the auger motor) as well as the 2 wires to the auger motor were melted off. I'm going try removing the current relay in the morning. I'm hoping that it could be causing my auger to not turn since the pressure switch terminal wire was also melted. The new auger motors turns fine if I put power to it. When I have the stove wired what I think is correctly the auger doesn't turn but the red light on the control panel stays on. I'll attach a pic in the moring when I get home from 3rd shift work schedule. Thanks Again !!

 

K

Symptoms do not sound good though.

The red light should only blink when the auger is receiving power.

Get a good piccy of the panel front and back as well as the layout in the cabinet

JUST AN FYI

DON'T USE KEROSENE TO BUILD A FIRE.

Add pellets to the pot, leave red slider switch off, press square start button, then with door open slightly stick a propane torch into the pot and wave it back and forth to get the pellets lit.

Once the pellets are burning good then shut the door and the draft will resume up through the pot and the fire will become brisk.

Slide the red switch to on and your set.

The use of liquid fuels to light these is bad ju ju (Can cause burnt wires)

I stopped using the gels and other starting aids years ago.

I use a regular propane torch that has the self start button.

It resides near the stove at all times.

The starter gels and other stuff are just a PITA and cost $$$$$$

A little bottle of propane lasts a loooooooooong time and I don't have to worry about having matches handy with the self starter.

 

Not at the dollar store......hand sanitizer works just fine. Mostly alcohol.

 

Back in the early days we bought a 5 gallon can of fire starter jell from a local paint company.

It was a blue goop (alcohol base) and worked ok.
When we ran out after a few years I started using the torch and never looked back.

I just stick the business end of the torch in the fire pot and keep the door as close as possible with my other hand to prevent smoke getting out.
With the start button activated the draft fan is running and there are no issues with the Whits.

From the time I step up to a cold stove, open the door, clear the pot, toss in some pellets (Shells stink unless they are burning hot) shove the torch in and get it lit and turn the feed on and walk away is about 2 minutes.

Never get a no fire situation either, it always works.

Not a real fan of the auto lighters, although we have a Quad 1000 that is fully auto.
Do not care for it much other than it will throw out enough heat to handle the entire house.

It's noisy for sure as compared to the Whits.

I will say this in it's behalf, it has been a good workhorse for 23 years since we bought it new.

Any more we just keep it primed and ready as a backup in case we have to leave for an over-nighter or in case one of the Whits were to fail in cold weather.

Back several years we really needed the Quad and the igniter died on a cold night.

Out came the torch and lit it manually

Not as easy as the Whits, buttttt doable.


Again to recap.

No flammable liquids please.
The will run down your air tube and burn your wires