Looking at the wall thimble and T support I realize I will have to cut the eave for the class A or frame out the exterior wall a bit (so T can be installed farther from the house) more like building a square out of angle iron, to mount to house and than mount T support to that. Than the class A can have a straight run up past the eave/gutter. Anyone else do this here or am I crazy and this is frowned upon? Everything I've seen except for one source show eaves cut. Figured I should get some feedback. Go figure I found a post (after posting this) of someone doing this and it isn't crazy just extra fabbing. Feedback still good though from the experience.
Great minds- I’ve been toying with this exact possibility. Some folks opt for a double set of 15° or 30° elbows, but those ain’t cheap. Plus you then need an additional straight section as well. More $$$.
This was brought up with a friend of mine while discussing the install. I don't want to add more elbows, with the wall install- there are 2 there. I think that is the max recommended and I read that Class A manufacturers don't recommend elbows on the class A outside of the structure? I may be confused though.
Good point. I have a rear flu exit so I’ll be looking at 3 elbows but might do the old double 45’s to offset the situation here, inside. Manufacturers sell the heck out of them but not sure if they offer any direction/advice in terms of when to use?
I would not extend the horizontal to get out past the roof...you will have to extend all the wall brackets then too...and a longer horizontal means the stove will be more likely to roll smoke out on reloads too. You could do the elbows to get around the eave, but its more money for sure...I say KISS, cut the eave and fill the hole with a piece of galvanized, or SS sheet. Up to 30* is ok. Straight is better.
Well those bends make cleaning harder and I am not going up there to clean, it's going to be a ground up effort. It's a tough decision, smoke or cut gutter/cut eave and deal with all that entails. The smoke actually seems like a better option. Either way it's more money, extensions or 30's and more work up higher than I want to be. I think I'd rather just go straight up thru the house and not cut the eave. And I already ruled that out. I believe duravent sells an extendable wall support from looking at their catalog. I'm not sure if that will work like I think it does? complications,complications,complications.. edit to add : what are your thoughts on a draft inducer? That would solve the rolling smoke ?
It probably would, but from what I read most people that have them long term find them to be kind of a PITA, just due to maintenance issues, cost, ect. Is that supposed to be for the tee support, or the ones every xx ft up the wall? (that's my guess, up the wall that is) Spendy lil buggers...
I can see them being a pita, like you said KISS and I'm definitely a fan of it. I believe it is just the wall support, and yea they are spendy. I think I'll only need one. every 8 feet is whats called for and I'll be exiting the house right below the 2nd floor. Yes agree it is spendy, bit of a sticker shock but nothing wood stove related is cheap. Everything has gone up by leaps since my install. I could probably fab one for cheaper. Or at least buy the shorter version at the lower price and fab it. Looks like it's just a longer piece of angle.
Talk to blacksmith about how he did his T support over the winter for his install. He can offer up some options for you.
I ran mine up through the eave, Joe (blacksmith) extended his out past the eave. He did his in total Overkill fashion, having to build extensions for the T bracket and also for the wall bands, but I don't blame him. It kept him from having to put offset elbows in the Class A pipe, which is best IMO because it's easier to inspect and clean.
Eric VW I was looking at the adjustable brackets myself and it was just a little shy of what I needed, I needed 17 ¹/²" off of my house. Here's how I did mine. 7/8" stainless steel strut and tig welded it. Scotty provided me with some stainless steel rods that we fabricated for the roof bracket. I used scrap aluminum angle to attach it to the roof. The other brackets for the pipe are the same exept it doesn't have the extension to support the tee. We had a few bouts of 65mph winds and it's still standing straight. Scotty Overkill wss a huge help with the install, I couldn't have done it without him. Thank you my brother!
Are you installing new, or just revamping/replacing some pieces? If installing new consider buying Selkirk Supervent from Menards...I've used it to put up 3 chimneys now, and its good stuff...their price is much better than most places too. https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=supervent&tid=bc692194-fd91-4cf5-806d-38aa38aa2b66
I do like menards but I'm pretty sure what I have currently is not selkirk. I have to double check but I'm pretty sure it is the dura brand. It was beer free back than. Granted all I'll be using is the double wall out of the setup but that is about 20 feet I don't need to buy.
blacksmith thank you for the pictures! looks wonderful. Forgot the important part, how is the smoke when reloading?
Ah, I forgot, I have sigs turned off...oops. I'm not familiar with that model, as far as how it is on "low draft" chimneys, in respect to rollout. Which even though the chimney may not actually be "low draft", a long horizontal can duplicate the effect. Chances are you'll be fine, but just something to be aware of. Sometimes adding a few feet of chimney height can overcome rollout issues too...sometimes, not 100%.
