In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Venting question

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by Smokinpiney, Oct 8, 2014.

  1. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    The hastings i've been working on is almost ready to come in the house but im still trying to figure out my venting situation. I plan on going straight through the wall and then up about 6ft to get above a window that it will be vented near. The stove came with a thimble, 2ft section of 3" simpson duravent and the stove adapter. I've been pricing out a cleanout tee, wall bracket, two 3ft sections of pipe, a 90 elbow and rain cap. Cheapest i can find is lowes online and it's over $200. I found the duravent through wall kit on sale on another site for $190 shipped but it comes with five 1ft sections. That should get me high enough but should i stay away from having that many joints?

    Also the thimble he gave me doesn't have enough space to drill a hole to fit the oak as well. Does the thimble that comes in the through wall kit have enough room?
     
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  2. imacman

    imacman

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  3. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    I checked them out a few weeks ago. They seem to only sell "premium" piping that's a little out of my price range. For the parts i need it'll be close to $350-400
     
  4. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    If you could get away with the vertical being indoors? I would do it. Just because the cold venting tends to have ash "stick" to the sidewalls.

    Just like a wood stove, you want to keep the flue gases as warm as possible until they exit the termination cap.

    It doesn't HAVE to be indoors, but the venting won't need to be cleaned nearly as often.

    As for the six 1 ft sections? It really won't matter if it's 1 six footer, or 6 one footers. If it's indoors? Then one 6 footer (less joints to worry about leakage). If it's outdoors, then those joints can leak a little.

    Are you using Duravent Pellet vent pro? Or standard Pellet vent (part numbers will end in pvp if it's "Pro" version).
     
  5. woodsman23

    woodsman23

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    Go out 12-16" place a 90 at the end and call it a day./
     
  6. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    I thought about going up and out but then i'd have to run another 90 once outside to get a little higher over the window. Even if i put the thimble as high as possible the termination point would only be a few inches above the window. That extra 90 isn't ideal anyways right? (the less twists and turns the better) and it would take my EVL into the 4" range i think. I can't direct vent it because im going out over a deck (this old boxy house doesn't give me a lot of venting options). The standard pellet vent is more in my price range. That pro looks like nice stuff but it's pricey! o_O .
     
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  7. badbob

    badbob

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    Standard duravent pellet has/is being dropped,but there is lots out there for sale.The new pellet pro has silicone seals.Unbeatable sales has about the best prices,and has some of the older stuff.Duravent and icc make a small opening(7 1/2 x 7 1/2) with fresh air incorporated.
     
  8. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    Well guys, i'm in need of some more opinions. After reading more into the different types of pipe, you guys have me talked into the pellet vent pro. But now my dilemma is how to get it outside. The stove is going in the far left corner where the duck and deer are. Obviously i have to get above that window but also on the outside there is an eve (non vented) to the left. I'd like to get above that eve to prevent any smoke swirling around. Keep in mind i have plaster walls and ceilings in that location so i'd like to do this right the first time (patching plaster aint fun :loco: :crazy:) . Just wondering what your opinions might be on this. I swear once i install this thing no more questions!

    I can go out and up but will need about 9ft to get 2ft above the window and eve. The pipe will be in a corner of my deck and not ideal for looks but i thought about painting it with high temp white paint to match the house.

    I can go up and out but in order to keep clearance from the ceiling i'll still need a few feet outside to get above the window. Adding two 90's to the system is not ideal right? Plus with the two 90's it puts me past the 15EVL so i'll need to step up to 4"

    I can also go straight up through the ceiling, attic and roof. With 13-15ft of pipe it should exit pretty much right at the peak. Even with 15ft and the tee i should be right around 12.5EVL so 3" is ok.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. badbob

    badbob

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    I think you need to talk to a chimney guy and inspector for your county.Usually coming out anywhere on a deck is a nono even though the cap is above,maybe ok with guards around pipe.Inspectors across the country "interpet"and use their own opinions.
     
  10. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Got a pic of outside the wall? If given the option, I'd go out and up here. But as stated above, it may not be up to your local code..

    If you go up, then out, then up, your EVL will be way over, as you said.
     
  11. imacman

    imacman

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    I agree w/ Dex. If code allows, going out & up is the simplest, and no real worries about EVL.
     
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  12. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    Here's an outside pic. Sorry it ain't a great pic but gives you an idea.The pipe would be exiting to the right of the window in the center of the deck and going just up past the eve on the right. There is an attic window above to the right but it doesn't open.
    IMG_171744071706362.jpeg
    Bob, have you ordered from unbeatable sales before? Definitely good prices but it's an odd website.
     
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  13. Spock

    Spock

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    Dex and imacman got you covered on the up and out , out and up solutions so I will offer my thoughts about going up and through the roof. It will be a bit more work and expense. The venting still needs to be secured to the interior wall and a framed box in the joists is required. Obviously you have to cut a hole in the ceiling and roof. Most of the additional cost will be for a Ceiling Support Box and Roof Cone (assuming you have access to tools). Take note of where the ceiling joists are as they my dictate the stove location if you go strait up. But cleanest looking solution IMO and minimal joints are bonuses. A con may be that you have to get on the roof to brush the venting.
     
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  14. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    Here's a pic with a sweet photoshopped pipe added. Thinking about a 90 with termination cap where the orange dot is. The eve to the right of the pipe is not vented.
    railing1.jpg

    Thanks spock, is roof venting a pellet stove not ideal? Or do most folks just go up and out/out and up because of the ease of install?
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014
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  15. Spock

    Spock

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    Depends on your options. Looks, cleaning and ease of install fall into consideration while passing code requirements. In my situation the best solution was to go out through the roof, didn't want the vent sticking out the front of the house and had no other option for stove placement.
     
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  16. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    My owners manual stated straight up through the roof is preferred. Though it did list the option for out then up.
     
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  17. imacman

    imacman

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    IMO, yes.

    Straight up (through a roof?) is the best for the stove.
     
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  18. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    It's looking like that might be my best option in the long run. The more i stare at the the spot i was going to go out and up on the deck, the more i didn't like it. I went up in the attic tonight to check on the location of the ceiling joists and rafters and they both run the same direction so i might luck out and have a straight shot straight up with no 45's needed. I can handle the ceiling work and a good friend of mine said he'd take care of the roof penetration for me. Looks like it's time to order some pipe
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2014
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  19. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Straight up is easier on the stove and easiest to clean. No doubt. More expensive involved, unless you have a "friend" who is willing to help you out. :)

    It's getting cold.. ;) Time to get that bad boy installed! :dex:
     
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  20. Smokinpiney

    Smokinpiney

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    You aint kiddin brother! Last two days have been low 50's, rain and wind. Aint fun workin outside in that stuff. Sure would be nice to come home and hit the "ON" button lol.

    Really the only extra expenses i'm gonna have are the ceiling firestop, storm collar and roof flashing. I'm still ordering almost the same amount of pipe and with my friends help it might cost me a case of beer :drunk:. And it turns out the pipe i got with the stove IS pvp (found the part #). So i can use the appliance adapter and 2ft section he gave me. Just need a few lengths of pipe and a tee.
     
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