As I continue to try and learn more about my insert and wood burning I cam across this video on youtube and was wondering if anyone has tried this? Or if it is any different (Burn Longer) than loading up the stove with some thicker splits? For a long overnight burn he basically threw in two 7/8" inch by 7/8" logs with a couple of splits on top of it.
I could not watch much of the video. I simply can't watch when the fool recording can't hold still. That is ridiculous. But I listened to some of it just to get the gist of what he was trying to say. Those were 3-4" logs; unsure of the diameter. Always keep in mind you can hold fires a long time or a shorter time but what counts is not the amount of time you can make the fire burn, but how much heat you are getting. Shoot, I can just put in some kindling and make the fire last all night, but how much heat will the stove give off? Or I can put a decent amount of wood in and have the stove throw heat all night. Do I want to get up in the morning to a cold house or a warm house? Basically I would put that guy into the dumb class big time. He shows his style early on. He surely did not like some of the comments he must have got. So he had to try to put down those who commented. You can comment and try to make corrections but if you do this you have to watch your tongue. I really like the part of the wood being in the shed almost a year so it is nice and dry and seasoned. Okay. Just watch the fire. All in all, it seems the guy just does not understand too much, or maybe he does not need much heat. I also like the gasket on that firebox door. Very nice.
All other factors being equal, I think that if you limit the surface area available to combustion, you extend the burn time. So larger logs should equal longer burn times, as long as there is sufficient airflow. Also more likely to self-extinguish if the airflow is inconsistent (happens to me a lot in my outdoor furnace).
All he's really doing is saving the bigger splits for the overnite burn. There's no magic there. It's not rocket science. Do the opposite and fill the stove with twigs, increasing the burning square inches of surface area and you'll get a hot short fire. Duh.
Thanks Dennis, I have much to learn, its going to be an all new experience for me this winter. I didn't care much for his tone either! I picked up on that gasket on the door as well, looks like it was in a blender!!
With that huge bed of coals it would go eight hours without wood. Noticed that wood didn’t ignite when he tossed it in. I’d say it’s moisture level was higher than he thought. In this case I’d say the stove is making the operator look good not vice versa
His wood is wet, longer burn much less heat and more creosote. I've never used an insert , so I can't speak intelligently about their burn times.. BDF had thermocouples and data recorders on his wood stove ( Woodstock ideal Steel) that easily showed 12 hour burns..
I wouldn't overthink it. Dennis sums it up best when he talks about heat output vs burn time. There's a finite amount of BTU's in a stick of wood. The amount of BTU's depends on the type of wood and how dry it is. The tried and true method I've used for years is get a nice bed of coals going and then fill the stove with hardwood for long burns. Keep the damper closed or slightly cracked depending on how your stove works. I generally go to bed at 9 and wake up at 6. It's 70 in my house when it's snowing and I still have a nice bed of coals to get the fire going again. Good enough for me. I would say that there is a little something loading North/South vs East/West. I'll generally go East/West for long burns but I have only noticed nominal differences.
Every stove has a learning curve, just as every new woodburner does as well. It'll take some experimenting for you to figure out exactly what works best for long burns in your situation. Flue height and type (masonry, insulated masonry, class A pipe, etc) all play a big role in it. As do stoves with primary air only, or primary/secondary air, or with catalytic convertors, the gaskets on the doors and windows on the stove, the moisture level in your fuel as well as what species of wood you use, outside air temperature, all play big roles in how long your stove can hold a good burn. You'll find yourself adusting your habits from season to season, as well. Colder outside air means a harder draw up your pipe,warmer ouside temp and you need to get the flue warm for a decent draw. We will be here to help you along....
He cuts in January to burn the following heating season. Hmmm.... Most here don't. Oh well. "I'm telling ya, it works"
I agree with ya totally...what's funny...90% of the people that I personally know around here that burn will cut there wood they are goin to burn this year between February - October or later. I don't say nothin to them no more!
Yeah.. same here. I'll mention it once and then drop it, It's like a guy I know that burns those processed wood blocks. And because they burn really well and clean, he hasn't felt the need to sweep his flue. I tell him every year that I've had mine swept, but don't dwell on him not getting it swept. It's been easily 20 yrs since his flue and stove were installed.
He cuts in January to burn the following heating season. Hmmm.... A friend of mine in the old glass factory cuts all winter. God bless him. He likes being outside and working in cooler weather. I can understand that, but after walking around in 115 -125 ambient weather at work all summer I just can't take the cold anymore. I would LIKE to be out cutting in the winter, but my old bones would rather be home by the fire.
