I've got a US stoves 1400 that heats alright but I've found out that I'm a better firewood cutter than burner! Anyway, no matter what I do the stove wont run above 250 degrees unless I open the doors which smokes out my basement. I got alot of creosote buildup continuously. I'm not above maintenence but this thing is rediculous. I'm about over the stove. Is this the norm? I'd like to get a stove that runs in the low 300's, heats the house (1500 sq ft). and doesnt need restocking continuously. I'm talking about a wood furnace. I dont mind every 6 hours or so, but I'd like to get some suggestions of stoves that members have felt that were good stoves at an economical price. Thanks.
Englander 28-4000 wood furnace, simplistic view is the NC 30 wood stove with a air jacket. won't break the bank $ wise, very proven . I heat a 2200 sq ft house with just the stove - central location on main floor ranch. well insulated. 6 hours or longer depends on wood type of course. wood does need to be 15-18% for optimum use - 20% works measured on the inside of a fresh split face at room temp all the way through the split. Today's load is some Silver maple a big chuck of Red Oak and some Mulberry . yesterday, -4F out 75F in mostly Mulberry. Considering I left the stove cruising at 550 at 6 am and I won't get home til 8 pm I figure the propane will have cut in by then at 68 F . Generally the last couple weeks it has still been 65-68 inside after 12 hours. temps were pushing 30 days high teens night. generally if i load it around 8-9pm the next morning about 4am it will be 68-70 depending on where you are in the house. mixed hardwoods. Had a hot blast many years ago one season of frustration was enough for me. Flue on my unit is insulated stainless type from the ceiling up and out double wall stove to ceiling transition. if you are using a masonry flue I highly recommend a insulated liner- its hard to get the Masonry ones hot and keep them hot enough to prevent condensation of the flue gasses = creosote. If your wood is more than 20% moisture content you are fighting a losing battle.
Lets start here and see if we can resolve your situation. It may very well "Not" be the stove... First, is that a wood burning furnace or a wood stove because there is "both" with that model label? If it's the stove I'm thinking of it has a 6" flue/pipe connection "correct"? But the first thing I need to ask is, is your wood seasoned/dry? Is it three or more years old after it's been cut. Next, how many curves, bends are in your piping system and how high/long is the pipe run to the top. Next, do you have a clear area off the roof and is the cap clear of creosote and any obstructions? Also, a pic would give us a much better idea of things. Dave.
Thanks for the replies. I'll get a pic in a minute. Its a wood furnace. The wood is 3 yrs old, moisture content around 20, we had a really wet year here in MD, extremely wet. The title is wrong, I've got a 1300, wood/coal stove. I'm a little frustrated because I cant seem to get the exhaust pipe above 250 on a constant basis. Got a masonry chimney with 3 turns. But the temp gauge is past the 2nd turn. Pics to follow.
How does the fresh air inlet work on the Englander? Got to add additional piping to outside? Also, anybody have any experience with Summers Heat wood furnace?
OK, somewhere "once upon a time" this worked correctly am I right? So, my spider senses here tell me there is "some kind of obstruction" and I'm guessing it's in the stove because getting to 250ยบ shouldn't be to much of an issue. You need the heat to create the draft flow up the chimney. Is the inside fire box area and baffle clear? Also, where are you setting the lower draft knob at? Do you keep it fully open starting? I am not the best person for wood furnaces but someone will come along I'm sure. Although, burning is burning and gas flow is gas flow, think of it like water, the less restrictive the easier it'll work. My first endeavor if I were you is, "Clean everything out" but I would really concentrate on in the fire box and the cap on the pipe. Also, keep in mind that those Duraflame starters have paraffin in them and "I/my opinion" don't suggest using anything like those. If it isn't natural, it can clog up stuff easy. many of houses burn't down because of duraflame logs!!! I have a suspicion your jammed up somewhere.
Might be right. Its on high setting and now I can barely get 200 degrees out of her. Going to shut her down. I've always used the firesticks to get her going, the logs are new. Just used them once or twice, dont really like them. But I am going to get a new stove. Have never been happy with the HB.
I just cleaned her out at the start of the season. About 5 fires through her. Doing it again it seems.
Englander , Summers heat and Timber ridge all the same units made by Englander just different names for different chain stores. Fresh air inlet (Primary air inlet ) separate piping if you want to do that. HB- That automatic damper on the loading door was nothing but trouble. The one I had would constantly jam up wide open - no amount of fanagling with it ever solved that problem. Some times it would jam closed as well. Used to leave it closed ( i made that permanent) and open the clean out spindraft a turn or so. Never had a problem with getting the single wall pipe up to 400+, even when I had a barometric damper on it ( didn't help anything burn time wise but caused a lot more cresosote build up.). my chimney was straight up after the 2 turns from the furnace ( 2 -45's not the 90's you have). Never had a lot of trust in that unit, was always worried it was going to over fire. The 2 blowers for heat distribution lasted about 3 months before bearing failure.
Thanks for the review. If I'm going to invest I might as well invest in something that going to last. Looks like I'll be shopping around. Kuuma seems to be a good one but pricey. Drolet might be more affordable but dont have a dealer around me.
I think you missinterpred my post the first sentance answers a question you posed the following line all relate to US stove not the Englander units. I should have made a new paragraph. Englander is a very good unit - similar to Drolet line. Englander made in the Munroe, VA.- Drolet Canada. US stove chi-com .
