Recently I moved to the property next to the in-laws, who have been dealing with oak wilt for a couple of years. They do not burn, and have 3-5 nice trees down from this season, with about 5-7 to drop over the winter. They already think I have a lifetime supply of wood (about 1.5 cord), and are not aware of the 3 year plan, but have oak free for the taking. My dilemma is my 5 acres is partly made up of red oak, and has no wilt whatsoever. Do I strike a deal to keep CSS wood quarantined for the first year on their property? They recently trenched around the next area of trees to contain it, but I don’t have experience with how far away to keep it CSS so bugs don’t bring it over my way. Also any advice appreciated about how to explain the splendor of potential Deep Stacks to wifey and her family.
Welcome to the forum. You might find this article useful: "To prevent oak wilt, do not wound oaks from April through July" Oak Wilt Management). Also, wood stacks can be very aesthetically pleasing, especially in Holzhausen formation.
Yes hoard all the red oak you can get. You can never have too much red oak. The wife should be happy you have a active and productive hobby and not chugging cheetos and watching phub all day.
Welcome to the forum CarharttWoodsman I agree, hoard all you can and get it split. Explain to them there are some of us who haven’t paid to heat our homes for several years. In the past 13 years I’ve filled the home heating oil tank 2-3 times. And during PA winters, we wear T-shirts and shorts.
Welcome to FHC CarharttWoodsman ... ... Keep it top covered and dry and Red Oak will provide you with some nice BTU's...
Welcome to the club! 3yr plan is the way to go. And, there's nothing wrong with a 4 or 5 year plan! If available, get as much red oak possible. And, best of luck containing the wilt.
It sounds like his real concern is "spreading" the oak wilt from one area to his stand, which doesn't seem to have oak wilt...... I've got nothing on that...don't know that I've ever heard or thought about how it spreads. Hopefully others can give you more direction....
"Diseased oak logs and branches will only produce spores once, so oak trees or logs seasoned over one year from tree death will not be infectious." From the above quote, if you could indeed cut and stack on their land, then after a year move it to your home you should be good to go. "Also any advice appreciated about how to explain the splendor of potential Deep Stacks to wifey and her family." Ask if they have any money in the bank and/or have saved for later use, such as retirement. That is what you are doing by getting ahead on your wood supply. Also, most folks simply do not know much about proper handling of firewood and even less about moisture content and how to decrease the amount of moisture to the point where it will burn properly and give you the maximum amount of heat that is available in that wood. As you are aware, all wood is not the same! Some has more btu than others. Different woods split differently (and somewhat give you a clue as to how much heat you will get from it. Some have more moisture than others. Some wood can be burned well after only a year in the stack while some, like most oak can take 3 years to dry (Oak gives up it's moisture very slow and starts out with a very high moisture content.) Some of this is the reason we came up with the 3 year plan. Cut, split and stack you wood right away. Stack it where it can get excellent air flow and some sun. Cover it on the top of the stack. Never cover the sides or ends. It needs air to dry. It can help if you stack it neat so it is not an eyesore. This may keep family members and neighbors from complaining that it is unsightly. Good luck and welcome to the forum. btw, we have several members in Michigan and there are usually a couple GTG every year. You are welcome to attend and meet some very nice and knowledgeable people.
Welcome to FHC. I believe oak wilt spreads in two ways. Small beetles feeding on fresh wounds, particularly during the growing season can transmit the fungus from an infected tree to a healthy one. Other way is an infected tree can spread to an adjacent one through root grafs, that is why in my observations, trees die in patches. That is also why they trench around an infected tree, to stop the root graf transmission. I would not be too concerned about CSS this time of year, from down trees. I burn a lot of red oak, good stuff.
Make a deal to CSS (cut, split, stack) on their property. Ive done it before. Move at a later date. Cant beat free wood close to home. As stated having dry wood to burn is like money in the bank. Also great exercise and family activity.
I've been reading up on Oak wilt over the past year or so. The farm that I'm cutting on has a beautiful stand of White and Red Oaks and part of it is affected by Oak wilt. Here is a link from Iowa State University: you can download the article for viewing. Oak Wilt - Identification and Management - Sustainable Urban Landscapes
I transported red oak wood killed by oak wilt to my home and woods and then started having my red oaks die of oak wilt a few years later. Not proof but in hindsight, I would not have transported the oak wilt wood to my home.
Thanks everyone for the advice and good links- iowahiker when you moved it, how long had the tree been down, and was it already split when you moved it? Backwoods Savage they recommend tarping the sides of the stacks of infected oak fo the first year to limit access by bugs, but this seems counterintuitive to drying/getting the bark to slough off, which is a sign the fungal mats are no longer able to be spread. I will hopefully post updates once I ask for my father in law’s blessing to CSS
I have mixed feelings on what they are saying. I wonder if because it is tarped and no sun if the spores might show after the tarp is removed. But, just in case it might be good to do as they recommend.