So, dear wife wants bead board wainscoting in there, and I'm having a REAL tough time figuring out how to do this and then trimming the windows. Should I run 3/8" drywall, then wainscot on top of that, or wainscot, then drywall above?
I've never done it myself Dave but have lived in 2 dif homes where it had been done. Both times, the wainscot was added on top of the sheetrock. I'd think you have an advantage of being able to put in any extra nailers, if needed, for the wainscot.
Yep. Although I'm not sure nailers will be needed, as the widest space is only about a foot. The drywall would act as a nice backer. Biggest problem is how to trim with the offset surfaces. The windows are 5' tall in an 8' room.
In my opinion, sheet rock, then wainscot. Locally, building regulations require some sort drywall for fire code and then ok for wood product over that. On casings that run up and over the wainscot, they will stand out once you are above that, build filler strips the thickness of the wainscot to put behind it. You will be at the same plane nailing them up with the filler strips. You will probably have to take window extension jambs and rip to right depth, or make them yourself to get you on the right plane on the window side of it.
Or you can put up casing as normal, and cut wainscoting to fit butted up to casing. Works good if you are going to caulk and paint. Wood left natural will be a bit more fussing around with. It will look great when done. I would run some 1x between the studs flush at the face at the top and bottom height of the beadboard for nailing strips. In a stove room the wood will be moving, so they might need some backbone to nail to. How thick is the b.b. going to be? Are you painting? Is it regular wood or some mdo product?
If it were me, I'd have the drywall wrapped into the window jambs. Add bead board on top of 1/2" drywall with a chair rail on top to hit any differences in thickness. I admit I may not understand the situation correctly though.
I can do 1/2" rock. I'll need to do ext. jambs, but not right now because these windows will be scrapped possibly as soon as next spring. Not sure how that'll need to be done when I put in the new windows, but that's the easy part. If painting, that'll hide the fillers, but I don't know if we'll be painting or staining the trim yet. BB (baseboard?) is still up in the air, but will probably be a stock item from HD. I don't feel like going to the trouble of making my own.
I don't want/like drywall as jambs, or do I misunderstand? I'll do a slim chair rail (maybe), but I still have the issue of the drywall and WS being on different planes. Thinking about it a little more....I could wainscot over the DW, chair rail, then drop the window/door trim on top of that similar to a traditional window trim out. Maybe wrap the jamb and wainscot with a corner trim piece? How would that be? Anyone see a problem? I'm gonna' end up with trim on top of trim on top of trim.
OK. Option 1: 1/2" rock. Trim the windows, then bring the bead board up to the trim...and finish with a chair rail. Option 2: 1/2" rock, put down bead board, then trim the window and shim the sides and top of the window trim with 1/4" behind the trim...and finish with a chair rail. Pick your poison.
This is how the wainscotting in my dining room is done, I'll be ripping it out in a month or so. When I rebuilt the bathroom and saw the backside of the wainscot, there was no drywall under it, it was nailed to furring strips that were nailed to studs. Not to say it's all done this way though.
I'm really liking door # one, although the macaroni Duct tape is tantalizing. I'll see it better once I start. It'll be after Christmas....maybe even after the new year. Thanks for the ideas.
We just hired out for drywall with similar windows. He used the rounded metal forms under the mud, is that the same as wrapped? It looks great btw.
