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Stove pipe damper

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by DNH, Apr 1, 2017.

  1. DNH

    DNH

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    Does anyone know of a way to install and control a stove pipe damper behind a brick wall? I can access the area behind the brick wall (mechanical room) it's just inconvenient to access when reloading the stove. I installed one last fall as a trial; I gain at least 2-3 hours burn time. My stove is rear vented sets ~2" from a brick wall so no room in front of the wall and I can't move the stove farther out due to my hearth.
     
  2. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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  3. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    Remote control servo and control setup from an rc car?
     
  4. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    I'm picturing something like this with an extended handle for more leverage and rod through the wall.
    Or any cast iron damper with extension and rod 3inch-manual-damper.png
     
  5. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    This ^ ^ ^
    I need to put a damper on my insert stove. My plan was to make an extension rod that attaches to the damper handle and then maybe a small bracket/pivot screwed to the stone of the fireplace opening to hold the outer end of the rod. :yes:
    If you need to go through the brick with the damper rod, just get a long (18-24") masonry drill bit and a hammer drill, it'll only take ya about 10 minutes to poke a hole through there if you have a good bit.
     
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  6. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    Much better than my idea. Leave it to me to create way too much work ;)
     
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  7. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    There are some that would "need" the more complicated style.
    I can see it connected to a cat probe and data logger. :yes:
     
  8. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    I had a cast iron plate damper in the horizontal run on the stainless tee right behind the stove. It was difficult to access around the stove since it was in a fireplace. I did not really like the plate damper as the rod had a bit of slop to it when actuating.

    There is no doubt it helps retain heat, so I am looking for a solution too. My current stove is a little larger and top vents, so even less room between the appliance connector and the block off plate.

    If anything, I may pull the appliance connector and install the damper. I can make a connecting rod and handle and weld a clip to the underside of the lintel to hold the rod in place.
     
  9. DNH

    DNH

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    Been real busy at work, I'll get some pictures tomorrow. Keep the ideas coming.
     
  10. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    Don't forget how much a PITA this cause when sweeping the chimney.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Sooteater will go past them...
     
  12. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    Really? That's a good thing I guess. I would worry about the rods banging into the operating shaft of the damper which usually just sits in holes drilled into the thin flue walls. Bang bang bang until the holes are all hogged out.
     
  13. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Nah, its a gentler kinder cleaner... :whistle: ;) I was amazed at how well a little weed eater line cleans though...
    The rods are plastic and really don't flail around that much, if it did start then just changing the speed a bit would fix that
     
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  14. DNH

    DNH

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    Here is the pictures of what I'm working with. I tried a choke pull but it did not work. I'm liking the geared option.

    IMG_1373.JPG IMG_1374.JPG
     
  15. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    What a weird setup. So the brick is a façade (fake wall)? Can you slide the stove into the room enough to locate the damper right at the stove? Do you need that rear heat shield? Rather than a choke cable do you think a solid rod would work?
     
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  16. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Can you go horizontally from the first piece of pipe through the brick to the side of the chimney? Might be tough to drill that long hole but it would allow you to use a straight piece of rod, maybe 20" long for direct control of the damper.
     
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  17. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    If you turn the pipe, or just move the damper so that the pivot rod is vertical, then you could drill a hole straight through the wall and attach an extension rod attached to the damper handle...it'll take some fabrication, and/or "repurposing" of some parts, but it shouldn't be too difficult to make it so that you have a push-pull rod to control the damper with. :yes:
     
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  18. DNH

    DNH

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    Highbeam it was originally a prefab fireplace with heat chamber connected to CHA complete with non operational thermostat control blower motor. I tore it out and installed a new chimney in the pre-existing location to maintain clearance. The hearth does not allow me to move it any father into the room. Removing the heat shield would not gain me any significant room.

    stuckinthemuck are you meaning instead of a horizontal 90* angle through the brick drill a 45* angle either up or to the side so I had a strait shot the the damper in existing location?

    brenndatomu im liking the combination idea from you and stuckinthemuck.

    My heating season is essential over, we had what I expect to be our last frost tonight I'll be using the heat pump going forward unless we have a few cold rainy days. I really appreciate everyone's input, once my spring projects are done and I can start tinkering before the garden starts producing heavy I'll get this upgraded!
     
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  19. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    No. I meant to move from existing location to the back of the stove and drill horizontally. Not sure how thick that would be.
     
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