I did some cutting with the MS290 today and it started fine and ran well. I cut it off while doing some other things and when I went to start the saw to finish up it did the recoil/internal something (don't know what is happening) "jamming" again; somehow it smacked my thumb which is smarting a bit. MasterTech looked at the saw for me and he saw nothing wrong with the recoil or flywheel but went ahead and replaced the recoil. I am not sure about me going into the internals of the saw and not sure I would know if anything was amissed if I did. To recap, if you pull the recoil slowly when it does the "jamming" thing it pulls normally, it is only when trying to pull quickly that it happens and of course you have to pull quickly to start. I only have the one big saw; the little echo is too small for some of the trees I need to tackle. My question is what is a good saw to replace it with that is comparable to the MS290? I wouldn't want anything heavier than the MS290. I am thinking of getting a Chinese saw for now to get me through as I am not sure the MS290 won't quit on me altogether.
Get a smaller homeowner saw with a better starting curve coil. The 1127 coils can bite depending on the FW and starting technique. The Echos and smaller Stihls are good. 250s may sometimes do it, though.
I’m no mechanic, but it seems like it should be a pretty inexpensive repair. Does your 290 have a decompression valve? I’d consider fixing your 290 if it’s running well and it’s not stupid expensive to fix. I definitely would not go the Chinese roughy. Looks like a new Stihl 291 would set you back around $500. Not that the 291 is a bad saw, but most one here would suggest other saws for the money. we would need more info on suggesting other saws. like; budget, size, weight, bar length, intended use, types and size of would, how much it will be used….
Just saw a couple of reviews on the Chinese saws; they are cheap for a reason. I think that would just be throwing away money. I definitely would want to repair the 290 at some point; if I tear into it then it might mean I don't have a saw. I am getting ready to finish cutting up some red oak at my sister's house next week while I can use her truck to haul it home. I am not that loyal to brands. It is pretty much Husqvarna on the shelf here. I like Stihl and wouldn't mind continuing with the brand. While $500 to $600 is a lot of money to me, I understand that buying a good quality machine and taking care of it should last me for as long as I can cut. It might just be time that I got a new saw.
I told a lie, there is a Stihl dealer in a nearby city to me that I forgot about. Haven't been in the place in a long time but I recalled seeing the Stihl signs all over the outside. If I go out tomorrow I think I will stop in and see what they have in inventory.
Agreed. Don't forget about Echo, all the saw, with half the price...well, maybe not half, but less! And a better warranty too!
Why not bring the stihl in to the dealer and let them take a look at your complaint? It seems to make sense to spend the least amount possible for your income/employment woes. If you aren't in a position to spend 600 ish, don't bother wasting anyone else's time.
If a mastertech replaced the recoil for you, even though the old one wasn't broke, I'd take it back to him and demonstrate your issue.
Did you check the needle bearings on the clutch drum? My 290 acted up the same way until it "seized" and it turned out that was the problem. I did some research and it was a "common" problem for a saw used as much as mine. I replaced it and it was fine. I later sold the saw. An MS250 for a replacement? Highest CC saw in the homeowner category. More than 2lbs lighter than a 290. Try a 16" to lessen the weight if running an 18" or 20".
MS250 is a great saw overall for the $, but it has a nasty kick occasionally when warm starting after a few minutes of cooling down. Pretty sure it's advanced ignition timing causing it. I overlook it normally, but on occasion it hurts... As I age, it will become more of a problem. I like the saw, but... I may have to back the timing off a tad on it. I hate to impact the performance of the saw by doing that though as it does rip pretty good with a MM and square filed chain. I've been wondering if there is a coil that could be put in that has a better retarding curve for starting. Just a thought because I'm not up on that stuff very well, just know enough to ask...
She means me. Years ago, (early 2017) I offered to go through this saw pro-bono and see if I could find anything wrong with the starting components. (Suspecting worn-out pawls, rotor, etc) Nothing was wrong per say, I was not able to get it to act up even with the single pawl. It had the single pawl setup and she had sent along another semi-complete starter assembly for it. I used fresh pawls, a new dual pawl clip and the best of the rest if you will of all the remaining starter components including a new Elasto-Start rope/handle assembly to help smooth things out a bit. Of course, I can't account for cranking speed after it left my shop, and that very well may be an issue if the saw timing isn't retarding enough for starting.
I honestly first though too much compression for the person trying to start it. My father experiences "kick back" (how he explained it) with the Husky 435 he has. That saw has no compression release. So I got him a 50cc JRed that has the valve. He's perfectly happy now.
Yes, and I was very grateful for you looking at the saw. You also ported the muffler for me. It is a strange thing. The saw started easily when I first started the saw. It was later after it ran and I cut it off that I was unable to pull the starter. Could it be related to heat in some way. I was going to talk to the Stihl dealer today about it but I didn't make it by the place; it got too late on me and they close early. I think they do repairs as well. It is not hard to pull, it is impossible to pull. Remember, I can pull and start the saw and did so yesterday. I haven't been paying attention if it only does it after I run the saw and it is hot. I would be happy for someone to take the saw and actually use it for a day cutting, starting it and running it and then stopping and seeing if it does it with them. This is one of those things where you might have to use the saw for a week to get it to do it. It is like the time my sister said she saw steam from her suv. It wasn't doing it when I would look at it. Finally she brought the vehicle to me and I drove it for a week before I saw steam out of the exhaust pipe.
I think someone mentioned this earlier and I was unsure what they meant. See, I know very little about chain saw mechanics.