In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Stihl Km 130 R (4 Mix Engine)

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by DexterDay, Apr 22, 2014.

  1. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I had a thread last week where I was looking for a new hedge trimmer. I ended up with a KM-130R Kombi unit.

    This thing has torque like crazy and throttle response that is unbelievable.

    Now after hearing more about them and running it a couple times, I have more questions. I know several members have either worked on them ;) and/or own them.

    1.- Can these be ran at full throttle for extended periods like a traditional 2-cycle engine?

    2.- Having hit full throttle already (albeit shortly) it seems like there is a limited ignition in it? Therefore the #1 question?

    3.- Overall, how hard is it to adjust the valves?

    For those that have not heard about the 4-mix engines, it's basically a four stroke engine (has an entire valve train), that runs on 2 cycle fuel. No need for crankcase oil, because the 2 cycle lubricates the crank and valve train.

    They are fantastic machines and I can't believe I waited this long to run one. If you need a torque monster of a trimmer, edger, etc. Give the 4-mix line of products a look.

    20140419_172029.jpg 20140419_172055.jpg stihl_hybrid.gif hqdefault.jpg
     
  2. Fanatical1

    Fanatical1

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    I'll be watching this post closely. I have 2, 4 mix BR600 blowers that I bought in late 2012.
    My string trimmer is a FS250 which is the last of the two strokes.

    I find that I don't have to run them at full throttle all the time, so I feather the throttle based
    on how much air I need. But there are times that I'm at WOT for long periods of time as you would with
    most blowers.

    I never had any trouble with them. Starts on usually the first pull and runs flawlessly. I always use
    synthetic oil mix.

    I use mine for everything, but bought them for getting the leaves up in the fall. It will blow them wet if needed.

    If I remember right, the dealer said that the valves need to be adjusted at 130 hours and I probably put about 15 - 20 hours a year on each.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
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  3. lukem

    lukem

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    Right before I quit landscaping the boss bought a 4-mix brush cutter...I don't remember the model but it was a beast. We had a big hillside to clear that even the dumbest/bravest wouldn't attempt with the tractor and bush hog. It was way more than our curved shaft trimmers wanted.

    I have not adjusted the valves before, but I have seen it done once. It looked pretty easy to do...well within your mechanical capabilities. I think the only thing is you need a special feeler gauge (narrower than usual). I think you do it once after break-in (20-40 hours) then every 100 hours or something after that...but don't hold me to that.

    I've heard you'll know when they need adjusted because they get hard to start.
     
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  4. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Run it like you borrowed it from your BIL. ;)

    The trimmers (IDK about the blowers) are indeed rev limited at 11k IIRC.

    Valves are cake to adjust. Remove the orange cooling shroud, (that's like 2-3 screws) one screw holds the valve cover on. The valves are then exposed. I recommend having a new cork gasket on hand for the valve cover. Official recommendation was initial adjustment at 10 hrs and every 100 or so thereafter.
     
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  5. rookie1

    rookie1

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    Coils are limited and I've had a couple act up and do wacky things. I adjust the valves in the spring on ours at the city. Haven't had a problem with any mechanical wise but have heard the early BR 600 had engine probs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  6. Fanatical1

    Fanatical1

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    I heard the same thing. I'm OK with mine (date of manufacturing) from what I researched.

    The dealer told me about $42.00 bucks to adjust the valves and said you will know when its time when their hard to start. Said it acts like the compresion is increasing when you pull the cord? No other maintence other than the air filter on mine.

    Mine have about 30 hours or so and they run like a swiss watch. So far so good.
     
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  7. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Sweet! I was worried when I hit full throttle and heard it hitting the limiter. Not that it needs full throttle ;)

    Never felt such a strong little motor. :)
     
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  8. NewToStihl

    NewToStihl

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    I've been running an FS90R string trimmer for 7 years now, a BR600 blower for 2, and an HT101 for 2. All three have the 4-mix engine. I've also worked on several pieces of equipment powered by the 4-mix.

    The trimmer & pole saw do have limited coils as verified above (same as your kombi). All of them will purr right along at WOT loaded or unloaded as long as you want to keep them there with no issues. The valves are very easy to adjust, but I would recommend getting the special Stihl feeler gage; it's the correct gap and also the correct shape (and cheap!). To gap the valves is tough with a standard feeler gage due to the width. The tool from Stihl has a width around 1/8" or so which makes it easy to slide into place on the 4-mix valves.

    After many hours of use I've never had to adjust the valves on my trimmer, but I've worked on other pieces of equipment that did need adjusting. When determining if adjustment is needed you need to think about throttle response, how smooth it runs at WOT when under load, and how easy it is to start. As mentioned above, higher compression is a bad thing on these. You won't find a Stihl publication that indicates desirable compression on a chainsaw, but with the 4-mix engines you will - I think the range is somewhere in the vicinity of 78-104 psi or something like that. There is an adjustable compression release not terribly dissimilar to other four cycle engines, so that's independent of the intake & exhaust valves.

    On a side note, I have a love/hate relationship with the 4-mix engines. They have a ton of power & torque, but they're also heavy and at times can be challenging to diagnose and work on. The hardest part about getting used to them is if you're accustomed to traditional 2-stroke engines; the 4-cycle seems slow, rough, and low pitched in sound.
     
  9. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    Run it full throttle all you want. I have a couple fs90r trimmers that are unstoppable. The only repairs have been pull cords and primer bulbs.

    Pole saw attachment is great...get an extension too.

    Mine are due for a valve check.

    Maybe mm will give us a linky to the feeler Guage needed?
     
  10. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Its a stihl part so you would have to get it at a dealer ....at least that is what I am picking up from this.
     
  11. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Maybe. ;)

    For the FS/HT/HL/KM 4-Mix units - 4282 007 1001

    For the BR 4-Mix units - 4228-028-0500

    I have been reading information on doubling up the exhaust valve clearance for the BR units. It is supposed to increase the amount of time the valve stays in contact with the seat, allowing it to cool better. It will reduce maximum valve lift as well but on the exhaust side I doubt it would have a significant effect, if any, on power output. I would only do this for the very early BR600 units as they are the only ones I have ever seen have a valve related failure and most of the time it was the keepers, not the valve itself, that failed.
     
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  12. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Just thought I would update this thread.

    I've had this unit Since April and ran the snot out if it!! I am thoroughly impressed with it. :)

    Has great torque/bottom end grunt like a 4 stroke, but revs fast like a two stroke. It's lighter than other units I have owned/ran and it is pretty good on gas.

    I have over 7-8 tanks through it. And its now time to adjust the valves in it.... :( Not looking forward to that.
     
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  13. rookie1

    rookie1

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    It's no problem Dex. Just get the feeler gauge from the Stihl dealer.
     
  14. 94BULLITT

    94BULLITT

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    I'm glad to hear that you like it. I just got a HT131 today, I think they have the same engine. I still want to get a KM130.
     
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  15. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    They are solid machines! ! They run great and have torque (torque, torque, torque! !) :dex:
     
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  16. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Thanks Rook. :) Still scary going into an engine you've never worked on before.
     
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  17. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Cake. Unplug the ignition wire, unscrew the orange cover, pull the valve cover, tickle the adjusters, put it together with a new gasket. Done.

    I should do a vid on these....
     
  18. Sunfish

    Sunfish

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    I've had a FS110R for 6-7 years and it been great, never adjusted the valves though, never any problems.
    First and only Stihl I ever owned... :D
     
  19. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Yep.. You should do a video!! ;)
     
  20. cory@owen

    cory@owen

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    I've had a 130 trimmer for two seasons now. It's heavier than comparable two strokes, but it's like string trimmer with a small block attached to it. I love it. Doesn't bog down in anything with .095 line but will break the line pretty quickly. It turns .105 line just fine. That stuff lasts much longer. I was thinking the valve adjustment interval was over 100 hours. After two years of home use(probably 20-25 tanks) I don't think I'm anywhere near that many hours.

    edit: stihl says 139 hours