Hi Guys - I'm running a 32" Tsumara bar on a 572. I've used the 32" X-cut loops from Husqvarna exclusively until my local shop couldn't get them in a timely fashion. So I got a couple of loops of 32" of Oregon chain, I think it was the 72EXL. Anyways, this chain seems to be notorious for coming off the bar at the slight hint of a pint or when I'm limbing (especially smaller branches) and when it comes off the bar, the chain catch does its job, stops the chain, but boogers up the drivers so I can't put it back on. I don't have any issues like this with the X-cut chain. I'm running the chain pretty tight, enough slack where I can pull the chain away from the bar, but not enough that the drivers come out of the bar 100% (maybe a 1/3 still engaged with the bar. I have to imagine, its something I'm doing, but at this point, I'm at a loss. Any advice? It's really frustrating to put a freshly sharpened chain on and spit it off cutting off branches and have to swap chains. Joe
I have a bunch of the newer EXL and it does not give me any issues with de-railing. Typically derailing is too slack. I used to get it a lot when I was processing pushed over apple tree's and I kept going tighter on tension till it subsided, for the most part. I think being more conscious about letting the chain get pushed side to side really helped in my case. Is there a chance these new loops are stretching a little causing them to be looser than when set? Ported 572 has the muscle to work them loose.
As the chain warms up it stretches a bit, the longer the bar the more it will stretch. How does the sprocket look?
A 32 inch bar, limbing smaller branches, and the chain coming off. Sounds like improper use. The cut needs to be across the branch, not at an angle. I have a 28" bar that I sometimes use for limbing, and it has no trouble staying on.
When I'm tensioning the chain, I have the saw on its side. I am not holding the tip of the bar up. Would this be something I would do as I'm tightening the bar cover nuts after I set the chain tension?
1. You should have the saw upright on a level surface. 2. Cover on, bar nuts LOOSE. 3. Hold the tip up, adjust the chain so that the bottom chain just kisses the bar. I like mine on the loose side so I have a SLIGHT gap. 4. While still holding the tip up, tighten the rear bar nut. 5. Release the tip (it should not move if you did #4 correctly) and tighten down both bar nuts to your liking. 6. Make sure that you can "spin" the chain. Grip it (while wearing gloves), give it a push, and the chain should spin around the bar a little bit. It should not be super loose nor super tight. Do this first though - with your saw AS IT IS NOW - put it on a level surface, loosen the bar nuts, and then spin the chain a little. Then hold the tip of the bar up, and see if there is any gap between the bottom of the bar and the chain. Take a picture and post it. The number one reason a chain comes off the bar is if it is too loose. When I got my first chainsaw I was overtightening the chain.
may be you have never noticed this but after installing a chain, bar tip held up . run it a bit not in a cut , you will likely need to readjust the chain as it will loosen up. been doing it this way for eons. I have only had one bugger of a problem with chain coming off not explained by the norm circumstances. First big clue should have been it would not cut straight no matter how I sharpened the chain or tensioned it - Old bar, slot so loose that a .063 driver wobbled let alone the .050 I was running.
32 is big for a 572. Got enough oil? As the Lord said. Tighten with the nose raised up. Hand tighten the nuts and spin the chain around by hand first. Allows the chain to settle into a worn sprocket. On its side you’re probably missing that step. By raising the nose you usually have the bar at its loosest position. If you bump the nose limbing the chain will tighten, not loosen. Oregon are stretchy chains. I used to toss 18” Oregon’s on my 550’s often. I stopped buying Oregon’s. THE 3/8”s are ok but the .325’s never stopped growing. Spent more time tightening than cutting Some of their lessor chains are made in China I hear. Those are probably the stretchy ones.
I know my Oregon chain stretches a lot the first couple tanks of gas the saw runs them through. When I buck up logs with a lot of cuts in a short amount of time I will have to retention during the first tank. Don't have that issue with Stihl chain initially. Usually if I have a stretch problem on Stihl chain it's near it's end of life. Teeth are getting short and my tensioner will be at it's limit and the chain will be too loose for me. But there's still good cutting edges so I try to run it one more time to get my dollars worth. I don't typically rock chains so they always stretch out before I run out of cutting edge. I'm always tempted in remove a set of links to get more use out of them but I replace them. Always keep one as an emergency chain...just in case.
