Couple days ago the kill switch on my CR950 B&S 6.5 hp stopped shutting off the engine. I just used the choke to kill it. It’s on my wood conveyor, relatively new motor with low hours. Trying to fill fire wood orders, gottakeepago ya know. Today it wouldn’t start. Always a one pull engine. Not seeing a spark on the plug, bought a new plug still no spark. Anyone know the ins and outs of these kill switches? I can’t even see how to remove the thing. I an order a new one but at the same time if I could Hotwire it I’d be even happier. I’m afraid I’m just out of patience with things breaking down. It’s been nonstop since June on everything I own. And yes the oil level is up, checked that too.
If you suspect the switch you could cut the two yellow wires going to it. With them disconnected it should start . Once connected it should kill the motor.
It’s possible. I assumed that’s where the various wires are connected and just a way to contain those connections. Electrical is not my thing. Why would a basic small engine need a fuse anyway? I like electrical so much I’m already looking at predator engines LOL. Probably cheaper and faster in the long run
Id cut or disconnect the bottom wire from the switch. That'll tell ya if the switch is stuck "off" or grounded internally.
It's definitely NOT my thing either. I know just enough to be dangerous That plastic cylinder looks like the fuse cases I've seen on some bikes is all. When I have electrical issues, I start with the basics and rule out the easiest fixes first.
it might not even be the switch. I’m just assuming it’s related because it just stopped killing the engine a few days ago. Now it won’t start. I’ll be tearing into that plastic thing tomorrow too. Disconnect some wires inside, see what happens. Could be the oil sensor decided to quit too. Maybe the coil? I know it’s getting gas, could smell it. predator replacement $149 at harbor freight in Berlin. I’m seriously considering it. I’ll tinker with it in the morning but I won’t spend much time with it.
On small engines the kill switch just grounds the coil out to kill it...same with the low oil switch. Just unplug the black wire where it goes into/through the engine cover...that will take the kill switch and oil switch out of the equation... also means you'll hafta choke it to kill it.
Problem solved. Opened up that wire pack, went to pull apart the black wire and I felt the end inside the engine give way. Tugged a little harder and out she came. Must have been a bad connection that was shorting inside. She runs with no wires I’ll probably fix it some day but it’s surely not a top priority. Thanks for all the help.
Your preditor engine you were thinking of probably very similar to the Chinese Briggs on it now. Generally they run a long time but always can get a lemon
Aaaaand I brought the truck out to load wood. No run, no spark. I’m going to harbor freight to buy a Chinese motor,,,,,or another Chinese motor.
Sorry to hear of this. One of my adversions to nice machines...when they are down its A PITA if you cant/don't know how to fix. Working on gas engines is NOT my thing. Ill do basic stuff and that's it. Why I'm thinking electric if I get another splitter. Good luck on the repair Joe.
Probably just the switch still grounding out the low oil circuit. You pulled it out of the block you said so disconnect the switch side both wires and it will be fine. Where my wife works sells a crap ton of splitters with that engine and they hardly ever need work.
The upper yellow wire on switch i believe gos to the ignition to ground it out, the lower switch wire is the one that does the grounding of switch when off and the one coming off the side of the block is the low oil shut down. Remove lower switch wire and one off the plug on side of block and it should run fine.
According to the (older) wiring diagram I seen disconnecting the black wire going to the coil bypasses everything. Sounds like the coil is conking out after getting warm (heat soak after shutting off)
