As usual, laziness comes back to bite a person in the rear end. Last spring I was rather lazy about putting the Revolution to rest for the summer. I didn't clean it until this fall, and I didn't even get the exhaust plugged and Damp Rid put in until mid summer. As you have already correctly assumed, there was a fair amount of rust on the inside of the furnace, but most of it was surface rust. There is a clean out spot behind the ash pan that I'm having trouble with. It is about 15 inches wide, and 1 inch tall. There is a cover plate that is held in place with three nuts. Unfortunately, the nuts have rusted to the bolt. I already broke the left nut off. The right nut is loose, but the middle is stuck. I'm been coating it with PB blaster, but can't get it to budge. I don't have a torch to heat it up, although it may be time to add a MAPP torch to my collection. Any other suggestions for getting the nut off without snapping it? Assuming I snap it off, then what? Drill the old bolt/stud out? There's not a lot of room to work here. There is no chance of getting a wrench behind the bolt to back the old one out, assuming that it's a both, and that it's threaded in and not a compression type of fitting. Thoughts? Other than don't be lazy next spring...oops. Love learning lessons the hard way.
Keep hitting it w/ the PB Blaster. Try tightening the nut slightly first, then loosen, keep repeating and spraying. If heat is needed, try heating just the nut, if possible.
For liquid penetrating fluid.... PB Blaster is good for off the shelf stuff (Kroil is better IMHO) Aero-Kroil Aerosol, 16.5 oz. : KANO LABS KROIL | Brownells But for something I swear by and is cheap to make at home.... 50-50 mixture of Acetone and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Shake before use. If that won't work then heat is your best option. ---Nailer---
I like to shock them rusted bolts with my trusty BFH.............. After a bit of soaking with the penetrent of choice.
Hello I always take a wire wheel on my drill driver and scrub the perimeter of the bolt or nut to get any rust that adheares it to the stove. It does not always work but sure helps a lot most of the time!
Another trick , although for you it will be difficult is to heat bolt from back side while apply a bit of wax to the other heating bolt from back side causes wax to be pulled towards the hotter area. heating the nut and applying same may work . Just enough to melt wax. candle wax, paraffin, similar
Interesting, I never heard of that. Are you saying the wax is pulled into the threads between the bolt and the nut so it will be easier to remove?
Thanks for all the suggestions. I bought a propane torch today. Not sure why I hadn't before, didn't realize they were so cheap. Anyway, probably won't get to it any time soon. Long term forecast is pretty rough for the next two weeks, with multiple lows in the negative column, which is unusually cold for NW OH. I'm also working a ton of hours due to my boss taking some time off, so my days are pretty full, and the furnace will be running quite a bit. Fortunately the furnace is running fine right now, and I have plenty of propane due to last year's extra warm winter. Will keep you posted. Thanks again.
Started working on the bolt today. Been squirting PB blaster daily and haven't gotten anywhere. Started with the torch today. Stupid question...how long to heat the nut? How can I tell when it's hot enough? Do I need to get it red hot, or just apply heat for 30 seconds?
Success! Got the bolt off, got the furnace cleaned up. All ready for this coming week. Just need to get some pellets inside. Thanks for the advice!
Primarily heat. Was using PB blaster, but don't think that made much difference. Didn't have access to the back of the bolt to try the wax.
