Replacing masonry chimney with stainless in spring need advice

I've decided to replace my masonry chimney with a stainless one after this heating season. I want to plan and gather materials over the winter/ spring.

The old one is in good condition but I want to clean it from the ground,from the bottom of a T with a drill.

I built the old chimney in the 70's. First with those square cement blocks with a hole for the flue tile. Was new to wood burning and bought the original Vermont castings Defiant stove. Years later I covered the cement blocks on 3 sides with brick.

Not too worried about removing the old one. I'll take it down in chunks dropping to the ground. If necessary I will use an excavator to carefully bring down chunks.


The removal and installation don't really worry me.

I need advice on which stainless chimney system to put in.

I think I remember that double wall is better than triple and some manufacturers make several of the name brands you see for sale

Duravent, metalbest, ventis, super vent at Lowe's with (Supervent 11 piece kit)
I've looked at Harts website and at tractor supply with their triple wall.

Height from where pipe goes thru wall is around 15 ft

Would appreciate any advice and knowledge from the forum!

 

Whats wrong with the old one? Why not just put a stainless liner kit in?

 

Nothing wrong with it really. I get more creosote because its masonry and colder but the main reason is I just turned 70 and think it would be better for the future to be cleaning chimney from the bottom. I am still fine with going up and cleaning But for how much longer?

 

Thinking about this...
I suppose I could cut in a another clean out door much higher and just below the T. Then I could clean up with the soot eater rods and a drill.
I thought to get the insulated liner in I'd have to break out the clay liner to make room for it.
My neighbor had it done for his oil burner chimney and they couldn't fit the insulated one down with the clay liner in place.

 

We had a steel liner installed, last year, for the oil furnace and propane water heater. Seperate from the wood stove.

The clay tile liners had begun to slide out of alignment. They did move the cleanup door higher, just under the T. They busted the clay tiles and left them in the void.

They installed a weather cap over the new flue.

 

You really need to check your local codes for any minimum requirements.
It's usually any all fuel chimney that meets UL103 fire temp range, but everyplace is different.
They could require UL103HT , sometimes in certain applications.
They could require triple wall only, again, sometimes just with certain applications.

There is no such thing as a national code that is enforced by a national policing body.
National minimum recommendation is UL103. Most governing bodies use the national minimum as a base enforcement when they have enforcements. But, again, you must follow local code if there is one.
Usually what is for sale in an area is what meets local code.
Always good to check though as mobile homes and manufactured homes can have different rules from stick built homes.

Don't give your insurance company an excuse to refuse coverage after an event. Inspectors often don't know sheet.

 

I put an insulated SS liner inside my masonry chimney some years back...and can still use the cleanout as needed (although I tend to clean top down)
I just asked the vendor to crimp the bottom of the liner tee so that I could slide another length of liner up onto it...this allowed me to extend the liner down to my cleanout door, which is pretty much at the basement floor. I just pop a stainless cap onto the bottom of this extension then...held on by sliding a couple bricks under it once its in place. After I clean the liner I go down and get the soot/etc out through the cleanout door.

 

Did not think of this at all. Really don't want to get the town involved. The insurance co has multiple pics of this chimney on the house since the 70's. I will check into this though. Worst case I leave as is. Everything is working fine!
Thanks

 

Good idea I will check into insulated liners and if I can get one to fit, it may be the way to go.
Chimney tile is 8x8 and the stove pipe is 6 inch. Originally I had 8 inch coming out of the Defiant. This might work but I think I still need to make another clean out door 3 1/2 ft higher just below where T would go.
Good idea thanks

 

Doublewall insulated chimney pipe meets code for a wood stove anywhere.
Triplewall (air cooled) chimney pipe is inferior for use on a wood stove...doesn't draft as well, or stay as clean...and takes up more space since it is a larger OD, but still has the same CTC. (8" vs 10" OD...with 2" CTC = 12" minimum space for the DW, 14" on TW)

That will be tight in an 8x8...6" SS liner with insulation is ~7.5" OD...if you have any mortar spooged out between the tiles (usually is) or offset tiles (typical) then things will be real tight...you might could put 1/4" insulation blanket on it instead of 1/2"...might help a bit, would be better than nothing.

 

I'm sure there is mortar sticking out but I can check that. Moving clean out door up higher might also be a solution. I have lots of time to figure this out. Just thinking ahead!

 

Will also check with the volunteer fire dept. I know somebody who could info for me too

 

I would investigate the raising clean out option first..
My insurance made me build a chase around my double wall due to winds. I like brick better than siding.

 

Exactly what I'm thinking now. Glad I posted here. Thought we'd be talking about different manufacturers.
But thread took a turn I never expected.
When I talked to my wife about a new chimney, her comment was it's gonna cost a lot right?
Now, moving clean out door up higher will allow me to clean from below easily and more often.
Even without liner of any other changes. just have to get a good clean out door that seals well.
Think I should leave the lower door or fill chimney below new door?

 

I would probably fill it as 2 doors could create some odd drafts or air leaks plus home for critters.

 

To install new clean out door I have to cut thru 4 inches of brick, 4 inches of concrete block and clay liner maybe 1 inch.

 

Sounds like a good time...

 

Ha, by the time summer rolls around the plan will change 10 more times
Right now thinking demo saw to make cuts

 

I had to break out my 8x8 tile to fit my SS liner last year. Wouldn’t fit otherwise. Guy I bought the liner from let me borrow the tool for my drill to bust up the liner.

 

I have seen this being done with a big drill and tool. Will look into this too. Thanks