Questions from a green log.

I recently got a stove installed and am learning more about firewood splitting and the tools to do it. I have some beginner questions...

I have heard that it is a good idea to paint your axes in order to keep rust off of them. Is that necessary? Regardless, I kind of like the paint because I can find the axes and wedges in the brush once I set them down.

I saw in the forum that pine can be burned inside once it is properly seasoned, is this true?

I have been sharpening my blades/bits with an 80 grit angle grinder flap disk and it seems to work really well. Are there any other recommended sharpening methods I should look into?

When I split using a single bit and it doesn't make it through the log, I generally pull out a 4lb hammer and finish the job using the axe as a wedge. I haven't really seen this discussed. Will this mess up the handle or bit over the long run?

I have a Fiskars X25 and x27 on the way but is there any problem with using garage sale axes? Mine have always done just fine. ... Maybe I just don't know what good feels like..

 

Welcome to FHC. Painting is probably a preference. If the tools are stored in a shed or inside, minimal surface rust happens.

Many members here burn pine, fir and spruce since they have little hardwoods in their locations. Seasoned properly of course.

As far as touching up splitting head edges, I use a Lansky puck that has two grits. Small enough to carry and touch up the edge as needed.

Hitting the back end of a splitting tool is very dangerous if it is not designed for it. Some splitting mauls can be used as sledges. If not, the hardened steel can chip of at an amazing speed and be as sharp as shrapnel.

The x27 is excellent for splitting, single or double bit axes are not really made for splitting. It can be done, but splitting mauls are wider and force the split apart better.

There is so much to read once you get into the forums. The search bar is a great feature.

 

Welcome aboard JackHammer


You came to a great site for learning

Some great advice up there ^^^^

Don't forget to check out the Resources section, some good reading there.
Resources | Firewood Hoarders Club

 

Thanks for adding the link Eric VW

 

... I guess you could say that I am brand new... We did use a stove when I was a kid, I just haven't done it in years. Also, my dad wasn't exactly an expert on the subject. I split about 2 cords so far. Mostly maple from the 2019 summer.

 

Welcome to FHC!

Pine is totally fine, once dry. Then again all wood is like that.

I went hydraulic decades ago for splitting, so I'll leave the axe questions alone. I've got a maul that has the other side suitable to hit with another sledge. But I try to avoid any of this sort of fun

 

Welcome to the club, JackHammer !

 

Speaking of new members, we're almost to 6000!

 

Welcome to FHC. You'll like it here. We like dogs, beer and lots of pics. There are a lot of great people with lots of knowledge and willing to share.

 

And don't forget we are worldwide. Lol

 

As for the flap disk and sharpening I'd say it depends on your skill level with a grinder. You can do an excellent job with it and you can booger stuff up depends on you. If you are happy with the results and stuff isn't changing colors go for it.
Oh and welcome to the family !!
As for painting stuff someone here has pointed out that bright blue is the only color that won't show up in the woods naturally so it stands out.

 

JackHammer if you’ve been using garage sale axes you will love your x27 and x25! You will probably be buying the ISOcore soon!

you mentioned that you have a couple cords on hand, that’s a great start! If you are like most of us that use wood for primary heat you will probably burn much More than you could imagine! After your first year you should have a pretty good idea of how much you’ll need. Stock up as much as you can!

what saws are you currently using?

Welcome and hoard on my friend!

 

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone!

I was thinking of the ISOcore mauls but I already have 2 8lb mauls (currently without handles) and a 10lb maul(with a handle). ... and 4 wedges. Those usually do the trick for me. I suppose I will see how the axes go and then think more about the maul. It is less about buying an extra tool and more about storing and maintaining an extra tool.

Saws... that is a good one... I have a Craftsman chainsaw and I keep it in really good condition... it does have trouble keeping up and I am not a fan of Craftsman. I am looking into a Stihl or a Husqvarna to get the job done a little better. I didn't think I would use the saw very much but it turns out I am using it more and more. I am on a few wooded acres and need a reliable workhorse.

 

That is a really good point. I was thinking that florescent orange or yellow would be a good color but maybe blue would be better.

 

Don't forget to look at echo saws in some ways best bang for your buck and build quality is in fact better than stihl. And yes I have saws from both.

 

... Echo 24 in. 59.8 cc... that doesn't look like a bad setup... Thanks for the heads up.

 

1. Paint is not necessary on the ax head itself. You can rub a small amount of Fluid Film or other household oil on it if you're concerned with rust.

2. Yes, it's true.

3. Watch yourself with the angle grinder. Any high-speed power tool will ruin the temper of the bit if it gets too hot, and then you'll have an ax that will never hold an edge no matter how much you sharpen it. I prefer a hand file, sharpening stone, and strop.

4. Get a splitting wedge and sledge for the nasty stuff. I use an 8 lb maul for the first couple whacks on a big round, and then switch to a 6 lb. Personal preference really... definitely avoid hitting the poll of the ax with another tool.

5. For me, heaven is a giant garage sale in the sky. I collect and refurbish old axes as a hobby, and would do it for a living if it were practical. Fiskars is great, but I prefer the feeling of the old stuff as well.