In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Polyurethane coated sledgehammer

Discussion in 'Axes, Mauls, and Hand Saws' started by Lumbering On, Oct 7, 2013.

  1. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    So I've moved on to the un-splittable stuff, and got my wedges and sledge going for the first time this year.

    Since I'm a suburban homesteader, I'm trying to be respectful of my neighbors, and the constant klanging of metal on metal could easily start to irritate everyone.

    Been looking at these polyurethane coated sledges.

    Anyone have any experience with them?
    Are they durable?
    Or will I destroy them after a year or two and waste $100?

    Deadblow sledge.png
     
  2. Pallet Pete

    Pallet Pete Moderator

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    Tried it and it cracked after a month then snapped off the hammer head.
     
  3. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    Well that's discouraging.
     
  4. Pallet Pete

    Pallet Pete Moderator

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    Mine was from lowes though and cost much less so maybe that one is better quality than what I purchased.
     
  5. MechanicMatt

    MechanicMatt

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    In my line of work we call those, dead blow hammers. I bought a snap on one, had it for 8 years, i've seen cheaper ones not make 8 weeks. Not sure how it would hold up to beating on a wedge, but Id buy a Mac Tools or Snap-On Tools version. You get what you pay for, and both the hammers I mentioned have LIFETIME warranties.
     
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  6. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    This is from the Snap On website:

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    WARNING
    • • Do not use urethane hammers near liquid oxygen.
    • • Do not strike against another hammer or other hardened object.
    • • Do not use chipped, mushroomed or cracked hammers.
    • • Strike squarely; avoid glancing blows.

    "DO NOT STRIKE AGAINST ANOTHER HARDENED OBJECT"

    I guess they are OUT for striking wedges
     
  7. AmarilloSlim

    AmarilloSlim

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    What about a roll on rubber bedliner to quite down the blows? I doubt it will last repeated blows.
     
  8. ironpony

    ironpony

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    A wedge is not a hardened surface.......they are normally malleable, made to be struck.
     
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  9. MechanicMatt

    MechanicMatt

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    Lumbering On, Im not going to tell you "You should" or "You shouldn't", all I know is I beat the snot out of my hammer and she is still in my box at work. Im curious if you do chose to get one how well it holds up so keep us up
    dated.
     
  10. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    I'm going to think on it a while.

    That's a lot of cash for a hammer. That get's me a third of the way to an electric splitter.

    It comes down to exercise verses convenience verses my budget this year.

    I'll get back to everyone with a status update.
     
  11. MechanicMatt

    MechanicMatt

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    Speaking of the electric splitter, I don't know if prices vary in different areas.......but my local harbor fright has mailed me a coupon for 100 off the electric splitter. Brings the price down to 349.95. And as someone else mentioned it does appear to have larger wheels than the homedespot's model. The larger the wheel the easier she moves around.
     
  12. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    I'm debating the splitter over in the power tool forum. I've got the same coupon. I don't think I have $350 to spare right now. But to keep peace in the neighborhood, I might have $100 for a quieter sledgehammer.
     
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  13. ironpony

    ironpony

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    $100 dollars for a good tool is not bad, you should have it the rest of your life. I paid $250 dollars for my Titanium framing hammer, only one I will ever need.
    also thinking about that post about Snap Ons recommendations, that would be for hammers in general. A dead blow hammer you should be able to hit anything with, thats what they are for. Why not just split with a maul, fairly quiet, if it does not split a couple whacks with a wedge should finish it off. How quiet do you need to be??
     
  14. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    Crowded suburbs...very quiet. noise ordinances and stuff
     
  15. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    The splitter will be the quietest option. We have one of those hammers at work, never tried it on wedges tho.
     
  16. AmarilloSlim

    AmarilloSlim

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    I'm really curious as to how the dead blow would hold up. I to live in suburbia so I try and keep clanging to a minimum. I'm the only homeowner amongst a bunch of renters. I tend to take more pride/respect for my property and daily activities. Sometimes I wonder if its worth it to keep the noise down.
     
  17. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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  18. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    The noise thing is interesting. What do you do with your chainsaw? Do you cut your wood to length or have it delivered. I would not think anyone would complain as long as it was between the hours of 7am and 7pm. My neighbor and I live in the country but are close enough to each other where we could bug each other with all the noise we make. He and she are metal recyclers and he does some machining and they have a few others who do welding/fabricating sometimes. We have never complained. The work and noise are done between 7am and 7pm. Before and after that all is quiet.
     
  19. Lumbering On

    Lumbering On

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    I scrounge pre-cut stuff mostly. I run saws on days I'm home from work early. I violate the policies from time to time, but try not to make a habit of it. The constable has visited me from time to time.
     
  20. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    How have those visits gone? Is he curious or does he want you to do something about it?

    I'm really thinking you should go electric as much as you can. There are some really good electric saws out there as well as electric splitters. The noise that they do generate is far less obnoxious than a gas saw or repetitive steel on steel.