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Outside Tee Wall Support Bracket

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by fortydegnorth, Dec 18, 2016.

  1. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    When my chimney exits the basement wall I will have a few inches clearance to the dirt level. I do plan to dig out some, but the side of the house it comes out is on a slight grade anyway. I can just re-grade the area to give me decent clearance under the Tee to remove the cap and clean the chimney. In order to do this I need to install the wall brackets, triangles that hold the support, to the wall "upside down". I personally can't see how this would be weaker than the intended method but I thought I better see what everyone thinks first. The pic below shows how the brackets would be installed. The chimney sitting on the support is only 15' with two wall supports. The wall mount is made to hold 38' of chimney. It will be very light in comparison to its max load.

    IMG_0267.JPG
     
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  2. BuckthornBonnie

    BuckthornBonnie

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    I've seen them installed that way, but can't speak on their strength. Does the manual say anything?
     
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  3. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    The manual only shows it assembled the opposite way I have it pictured.
     
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  4. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    The only way it will be weaker is if you are lax in fastening it to the wall. I'd put in an extra lag screw or something just to be sure.
     
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  5. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    Got the hole cored out today. I mounted the outside support with 4- 5/16" sleeve fasteners. I can't imagine that wouldn't be enough to hold 15' of double wall when I will also have wall supports. I will need to dig under the tee more so I have access to the cap for cleaning. I set the horizontal pipe today in mortar. The core drill was expensive but did the trick. I'm curious if I could have hired it out cheaper. Rental with a 10" bit was $220. I'll put pictures up in a build thread once I get a little further along. Teaser pic...

    IMG_0273.JPG
     
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  6. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    I hope you put some rise in the horizontal section. 1/4" per foot is usual code. We went 1/2" per foot.
     
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  7. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    The hole was 10" and the outside of the pipe is 8". I had plenty of wiggle room to tilt it up
     
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  8. Paul bunion

    Paul bunion

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    Can you mount the base so that it sits inside and on top of the triangular braces? That way you will have the weight of the stack sitting on the brackets as opposed to being held by the 2 bolt heads. That will be a significant difference in its strength. I don't think it was designed to have the bolts hold the entire load. If you can't I would add some angle iron or band iron top and bottom along with some beefier bolts to really hold it together.
     
  9. BuckthornBonnie

    BuckthornBonnie

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    We used wedge bolts and tapcons.
     
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  10. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    What does the area look like outside? Photo? As already stated, installed in that manner the bolts and shear strength of the sheet metal (bolts pulling through the holes) is what is supporting the chimney. You might just want to build an entirely new support and discard that one; which is what I ended up doing with my through the wall kit.
     
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  11. saskwoodburner

    saskwoodburner

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    Hate to be a naysayer to the original poster, but I agree with Paul bunion. While not a structural engineer, it seems easy to assume that any weight bearing down with the bracket as is, will put all the force down and outwards on the bolts.

    With it the correct way, the weight would spread out and towards the wall evenly (my guess).

    I'm sure there's formulas available that would tell you what kind of loading you're putting on it.
     
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  12. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    I just want to say that it is always better to be safe than to have your chimney fail on you with a roaring fire in the stove.
     
  13. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    I too agree with Paul bunion- add at least (2) 1 x 1 angle under (between the triangle support and base plate)or atop where your existing screw heads are-
    IMG_0032.jpg
     
  14. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    I'm working on the brace now. It has a roof support and a support into brick halfway up. At this point if it failed it couldn't fall anyway since the double wall tee'd into it is set in mortar and an 8" thick concrete wall. If that failed it would fall 1". Nothing carastrophic here. I'm adding support because it's cheap insurance but I definitely don't believe it needs it. If this was a wall thimble it would be much more urgent.
    IMG_0322.JPG
     
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  15. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    I added 2' to the top and a roof support

    IMG_0324.JPG
     
  16. Kimberly

    Kimberly

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    It should draw nicely with the height you have.
     
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  17. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    You want the top of you pipe to be 2' higher than anything within 10' of it!

    By the looks of your pics, this may not be the case?

    The job looks nice.
    Myself, I would not have reversed the wall support bracket; that point is moot.
    I would try to get underneath the shelf of the wall bracket and support it there also.

    Re-looking (?) at your pics, I see you already added another section. (reading/sight are such useful skills!)

    When are the install pics coming??? Good luck!
     
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  18. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    In the thread that says "Woodstock ideal steel install". The chimney is a above the peak of the roof by a little over 2' now.
     
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  19. saskwoodburner

    saskwoodburner

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  20. fortydegnorth

    fortydegnorth

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    The instructions I have say every 8' I think. I have another strap if it's needed. Took about 3 minutes to install the other one.
     
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