Here’s the scoop.... we’ve got a ranch style house with a full basement. 2/3 of it was “finished” by a previous owner by building a wall across with a doorway into the utility room area. My question is how I should go about framing out the 2/3 space? I plan on scrubbing the block, paint sealing it then where do I go? I’ve seen glueing foam to the block and framing against it with insulation in the framing. I’ve seen foam on the block with air gap then framing and insulation. I’ve seen no foam an air space then framing with.... you guys get the picture! Who has been there done that? I’m just concerned to spend time and money to end up with a mess!
My brother in-law is a contractor when he was finishing his own basement he sealed the walls like you said and framed it all up leaving an air gap between the wall and the blocks. He said that the reason being is the wall will tend to be warmer thannthe block and over time allow for mold and mildew to grow. When you insulated the wall make sure that tbe insulation does not contact the block as well. Whe building your walls use pressure treated wood for the bottom plate against the floor because over time regular wood will start to rot. One more thing when attaching the pressure treated plate to the studs use deck screws and not nails, the chemicals in the pressure treated wood will eat the nails away! That my 2 cents I've hoped that I helped and didn't lead you in the wrong direction, I am sure that someone that knows more than me will be able to give you better advice
I prefer a full stud wall inside the block wall with a vapor barrier against the block wall. Like was said above, use acq lumber and either screws or nails made for that treated material. Foam against the block would be great, but adds a lot of expense. If you have dampness problems showing on the block now, deal with that first by handling gutters and correct drainage on the exterior. Basements make a nice space when sealed well and finished with good light. I live out basement as I lose track of time very easily in the comfort of a family room and wood stove choo choo-ing along. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So it sounds like a must for the air space between block and framed wall. I already redid the drop ceiling with new lighting and such when we moved in so that’s good to go. Currently the ceiling goes to the walls, which are 2” of foam on the block. I’m wondering weather to go around and trim back the drop ceiling and run the new walls up behind it or use the new wall top plate as sort of a resting/anchor place for the ceiling?
Guess that depends on how you want to finish that top horizontal Corner? Maybe a crown molding or just finish tight to the ceiling. Is the existing ceiling drywall or drop in tile? You could use tear-away bead on top of the new wall drywall and have a clean line when finished. Also, this all assumes the foam insulation is tight enough for you and goes above current ceiling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The ceiling is steel track with the 2x4 fiber tiles right now. If I went past it I’d have to cut every piece of track back and redo the perimeter tracking to meet the wall. As far as the exsisting 2” of foam it’s all coming out and will be the block face which I plan on sealing up.
You got a pic? How do you want it finished. I am assuming you do not want cut back all the metal ties. You can run a false wall to the drop ceiling assuming that your metal Corner rail is touching the block wall. This would require building a pressure fit wall to the sides. And then a type of crown molding or your choice to cover the wall ceiling intersection.
Excuse the cobwebs and spiders This is a shot of a window well and it gives you a good shot of how it’s done right now. The blue/green is the block then there is a 1” firing strip shot to the block with 1” foam between them. Then 1” of foam over that giving 2” total away from the block. Then the drop ceiling rail is tacked through the foam into the fitting strips all the way around. I plan to deep six the foam then go with an air space(1”?) frame a 2x4 wall with 3/8 drywall on the outside. I’m thinking, providing that 1” airspace is adequate I will just frame the wall so the drop ceiling sits on top of it then run a piece of 1x or something a bit nicer around the top to dress it up. This is just going to be a play room and a corner of it for my desk, computer and even a reloading bench. I’m not looking to do anything fancy by any means.
Basements are tricky to get right. From you pics the "foam" used is the wrong kind. Vapor barriers are a no no these days, they trap the moisture. the only way to properly finish a basement is; clean and seal block install foam onto block as a thermal break taping and sealing every possible gap seam void., the block is cold and the basement air is warm. frame wall and insulate the cavity with no vapor barrier, paper backing research it online, any other way will create condensation and eventually grow mold. Pressure treated wood for anything that contacts concrete fasteners rated for pt wood preferably "blue" wood which is treated
Follow ironpony advice as does look like wrong type of foam. Why I wanted a pic. Better to do it right than get mold and do over.
The foam is wrong was the first thing I noticed too! It’s got to be like a sponge! I’m worried about what I’ll find back there but weather I do nothing as far as framing goes or not I’m going to tear it out and seal the block at very least.
I’m liking that advice as well! As far as the picture it’s the work done by previous owner which so far I’ve noticed nothing here has been quite right
Owens Corning Foamular 150 1-1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-7.5 Scored Squared Edge Insulation Sheathing-88WD - The Home Depot Something like this on the sealed block? Then frame tight to it?
That's the stuff you want. I've also seen, and I'm not saying this is 100% correct, guys seal block, screw treated 2x4's flat against the block 24" OC, and fill the space between them with 1.5" pink board, then cover with moisture resistant drywall. If your basement is naturally dry this could be an option, but if you are fighting moisture on a routine basis them probably should go a different route.
Seen that too with the 2x’s on the concrete. It would sure save space, but as long as it’s done right in the end and I’ve only got to do it once
After reading all the fine advise in this thread....... I just could not get this vision out of my head. Good luck on your basement job.
I'm getting ready to finish another room in the basement, gonna use this Johns Manville Polyiso foam board...heres's their install info...page 9 starts the basement section of the info... https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/MANVI001/Install_Instruct/JMAPFFSheathing.pdf
