NT Sharpener on sale again

The famous NT chainsaw sharpener is on sale once again. I picked up one a few weeks ago, works great!

Add another dollar's worth of stuff and get an extra $20 off using this code: 189442

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...KETCODE=&om_rid=AAT-bB&om_mid=_BULMH0B8v8Jd13

 

Sinngetreu

 

Thanks for spending my money! Just ordered one and an extra wheel for 102.47 total including shipping. I have been thinking about one and you pushed me off the edge!

Gary

 

That looks to be the same grinder as the timber tuff that I have. I am very happy with mine. I have many chains from work that get seriously abused cutting roots, rocks and telephone wires and that machine has saved me a ton of money. One thing I like to do before sharpening is to soak the chains in ammonia over night and douche them with good hot water before sharpening them. The wheels stay cleaner and grind better that way.

 

I am tempted to get one just for handling rakers so I can leave my 511ax set for tooth grinding.

 

With the way my finances have been lately, my new sharpener is going to be Pallet Pete.

 

I've never used a grinder to sharpen a chain, I use a Drexel with the little chain charpener attachment and diamond cutters which seem to last forever. Easy, fast, and you don't need to remove the chain. These grinders look awkward, big, can't use in the field without difficulty, .... But there must be something to it, you guys with experience seem to love them. So what gives? Are they easier than it looks or something? Why not just use a Drexel?

 

Do you mean Dremel? I have one and I have the bit for it, but it seemed like it went way too fast. Do you have any issues with taking too much too quickly? Also, how do you make sure that each tooth is even? With a file you can count strokes, do you just count seconds? I want to use mine, but I have had reservations.

 

I have the dremel set up-- really don't care for it.

 

I sharpen in the field with free hand filing. After 4-5 sharpenings or if I ding up the teeth I will regrind it.

I did order one of the northern tool units.

 

Chain gets dull, throw on another sharp one. Unless you are a horrible operator or cutting some horrible wood 2-3 chains should be enough for a day of cutting. I keep a dozen or so loops ready to go and wait till I'm about out to sharpen them.
Use the daylight to cut wood, come home and grind chains then. Takes me maybe 5 mins a chain to sharpen with the grinder. Little longer if I have to do the rakers.

Northern Hydraulics has some decent stuff, too bad shipping is pricey. It was around $30 for shipping on that grinder. That was with the USPS slow boat 4-6 weeks.

 

Ultrasonic cleaner with some dish detergent gets chain really clean & degreased for inspection before grinding. Air blast gets 'em dry.

For the NT grinder, I'd suggest getting some Molemab wheels from Bailey's or Oregon wheels, like from Frawley's, bundled with another order. The OEM wheels with my NT grinder had much runout and dynamic imbalance.

Out in the woods, I use a Granberg filing guide, same as at home. Quick, simple, precise. Buds routinely use their saws for ditch-witches, so the grinder is for making quick work of their chains, mainly. Granberg guide takes up very little room in my tool bag, when I go hoofing it out into the woods.

 

Depends on the chain but the 3/16" wheel should cover most. I ordered an extra Oregon 3/16" wheel and its covers the following per description:

 

I forget the thicknesses but I use the skinny one for saws, middle on for the processor and thick one for rakers.

 

Is the replacement grinder you got working good ?

 

Yup.