All new including water lines from cistern pump to lines to new sink and washer as well as electrical. I ran my first load in the new machine last night. They came out looking like they went in (dog food bowls still telling......). Today I tried it again and finally opened the door and used a spoon to depress the door closed button so it would still run and it never filled with water It tried and tried. I could hear things working, but no water. Finally the screen started flashing an error code not listed in the manual. Tonight he pulled it back out and unhooked the water line at the washer, opened the valve and water ran fine. Its a tee from the hot water line to the sink faucet and that runs fine too. Tomorrow when I can think better I will google the predicament and look into my warranty. Too bad remodel is taking so long and it has sat in the garage for several months, hope its still covered. Its computerized, maybe I can find how to reset or reboot it? bummer, I special ordered it and had it shipped for my particular needs! I cannot bring it back and exchange it. Had to add one more bang head on brick wall
Our new topload fancy smancy washer wouldnt run when i first installed it and found out that it has to have both hot and cold water going at it. We dont use hot water so didnt open the line and the machine senced it. Is there maybe a blockage in one of the lines going into the machine wildwest?
Just for grins recheck all your unpacking install directions, In the past I have seen packing material blocking the solenoid that controls the water flow and in some cases it was unconnected possibly from packing material removal. Note that in a lot of newer items there is a line seal plug that must be removed before connection not always marked as such
Check for blockage at the connections or a kinked hose. If there is a removable bottom service panel, the water fill solenoid may be right in the front. When the washer fills, the solenoid makes a solid loud click upon opening and closing. Verify that Teflon tape is not covering any of the water line connections, especially the elbow going in to the solenoid. Check the float switch in the bottom inside of the washer, in case it is hung up from handling and installation. If you hear the solenoid actuate, it would seem like a blockage in the line. Did you do an internet search for the error code. A lot of troubleshooting info is out on the web. Is it under warranty?
They aready did that line to unit ok. Matter of isolating to mechanical or electrical malfunction at this point. If I am not mistaken the door lock must be fully seated- safety switch on that not sure what type though.
You generally have a year warranty even on a cheap one I had. I have a kitchen aid now and ithas like a 3/5 year wwarranty. They send a tech out to the house to fix it. Thats what they did with my cheapie frigidare when it broke.
Is the supply line braided stainless steel? A lot of the braided stainless supply flex lines these days are "flood safe," meaning the have a small valve that clamps down and shuts off the water if it sense A LOT of water flow. They are a good thing, but many don't know how to treat them yet. You have to turn the water on very slowly. And they have to be installed correctly. They usually have on end that is larger than the other, and that end is usually connected to the supply side. So if you do have a stainless braided line, check to see if it's flood safe and installed correctly. If it is, turn off the water and loosen the large, supply side end to relieve the pressure. Re-tighten and turn the water on very slowly. Should get you flowing. I own and manage rental properties. We had a dishwasher installed in a newly remodeled apartment and the tenants called complaining about no water in the dishwasher. I knew immediately why and was able to fix it relatively easily. Good luck! Josh
Make sure the internal float is not stuck up from transport as well - check above advice on the water line before going to far Boiler74 welcome to the forum good helpful info
Thanks. Recently found this site after seeing it alluded to on another wood burning site. Been lurking but thought maybe I could help wildwest here so I joined up.
YES braided stainless lines. Can you offer more guidence on the "bigger end" I just put a crescent wrench on both nuts, same size. I eyed the length of the nuts along with the clamp that connects the nut to the hose and they all appear to be the same size? Also, we have TWO braided lines hooked to eachother to reach the inlet elbow. If it means anything both braided hoses were installed with retail label tag towards the water inlet valve. Thanks!!
I was able to trouble shoot this morning without success. Then the power went on and off every few minutes all afternoon so I could not run a test cycle or phone for an appt. I tried tapping the float to dislodge, Tapping the solenoid (no I do not hear a loud click fishingpol), And the machine is pulled out from the cabinet, So I can actually see the solenoid as well as listen closely for it. large pitcher of water to lubricate parts (drained just fine), and unplugged it overnight to reset the control panel. undid all lines to check for teflon tape or packing materials No success.
I don't have a flood safe dishwasher hose here, but I do have one for a washing machine. The ends are about the same size here, but you can see the tag that says "connect this end to water supply." On a dishwasher supply line that little valve is about the same size as in the picture, but the line is smaller. If you don't have a flood safe line, and you are sure there is water at the supply valve, I would disassemble the union you used for connecting the two braided lines together. Test water there and confirm you have it and then reassemble the union. Then test at the end of the double supply line by disconnecting at dishwasher. If you have water at the end of the double supply line, the last thing I would check is the connector to the dishwasher. Dishwashers don't generally come with the fitting necessary to attach to the water line. Ten years ago you needed a 3/8" x 3/8" 90 degree male elbow. But a lot of dishwashers today have a male hose thread fitting. Think garden hose fitting. You then get a male hose thread to 3/8" male pipe thread fitting. I don't remember but there may be a screen right in this connection. Take that apart and look, cause with all the water work you said you did some gunk may have travelled the lines only to end up in a screen. Hope that makes sense. I'm tired and dealing with a sinus infection. Josh
I can't imagine the clothes would wash worth a darn with cold water? I wash my clothes with hot water, otherwise the oil/grease/gas/diesel, etc doesn't come out.
Tell ya what bar oil don't come out even in hot water. Either that or I have water that is so hard ya don't need a pitcher to carry it around.
I dont care too much about laundry but Mrs loon uses stuff like this. All my work clothes get dealt with at the Sewage plant.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YV2RT4...SIN=B003YV2RT4&ascsubtag=-8069713842274964858
^This. I would focus on the solenoid that controls water inlet. If you hear the machine trying to run, the door switch is working properly. I had a similar problem once and disconnected the outflow pipe from the solenoid and found out that although I could hear the solenoid clicking, it wasn't working properly. It's a simple fix if that is indeed your problem.
