Hello guys long time lurker first time poster lol.... I am about to bite the bullet and buy a brand new 461..... Can you guys that own the 461 please tell me if the standard model will oil up to a 28"B&C good enough.... I just can't believe stihl would sell a $1000 dollar saw that immediately needs a damm upgrade to a HO oiler....if you guys feel that the oiler works fine, please let me know.... Also any other info on the saw is greatly appreciated, as I want to ad this saw to my line up asap if I know I can depend on it for years of use like my other stihls.... Thanks aot Kyle....
The 461 has a lot of legacy parts from the 046/460. The oiler is one such part. My 046 has never had a problem oiling a 28" bar. Or you could mod the oiler the saw comes with if you find it lacking. Modding oilers | Firewood Hoarders Club
Lol hey thanks a lot.... Ya I have read ALOT about the oil situation, and call me crazy, silly, cheap , whatever, but I just absolutely would flip out it I got a brand new saw and the first thing I had to do was mod the oiler....absolutely love working with saws, but having to mod a brand new $1000 saw, I think is a little too much.... However, I do have to wonder if some of these people saying that the 461 isn't oiling right are just want the saw to throw off more oil than needed....I mean please correct me if I am wrong, but I was always taught if you're chain has a coat of oil it is just fine.... And yes all I cut is hard woods here in indiana, oak, hickory, walnut, locust, and osage.... I am always open to anyone's ideas or input so please, any info on the 461 please let her rip.... Thanks a lot Kyle....
Glad to see you over here Kyle! Again, don't over think it. My MS461 has been a great sawl. I modded the oiled just because I could. Unless you are a west coast feller running 32-36" all day long, the standard oiled will be fine.
28" is usually fine. I'd mod the oiler or buy he wrap version and get the HO oiler included with the wrap handle and bigger clutch cover. Sell the handle bar if you don't like the 3/4 wrap
I have a 460R with the HO oiler, so I can't really weigh in on your original question. But I normally run a 25" bar because a standard weight 28" is a little nose heavy on it. So I'd go with a lightweight if you're looking in the 28" range.
I will look tonight because I believe I am running a 24 on mine at the moment and it is well oiled. I also cant remember, but I believe there is an adjustment on the 461 specific for the oil. The dealer (if worth a$hit) should be able to show you everything and you at ease.
Hey mike thanks for the reply, ya I can tell there are a bunch of extremely knowledgeable saw guys here and I just ol country boy that likes to run and work on saws.....mike how long have you had your 461, and what size B&C do you run on average....and lastly mike did your "stock" 461 oil good, especially with the oil screw fully open.... Mdavlee , I actually had a guy send me the pdl files for all the 461 models and the 461RZ and the 461 RVWZ are the only models that have the HO oiler.... As stated in the pdl file the 461R has the standard oiler.... I have the files and I am not great with this new "fancy" phone but I can probably figure out how to send them to whoever would like to see it for themselves, as I like to myself Hey Shawn thanks man will look into it.... I prolly will only be using a 25" B&C, but I want to know that if I ever need a 28"B&C it will oil it just fine.... Thanks a lot guys really appreciate all the input.... Kyle
In the US, you would be likely only be getting the RZ version of the 461 with a 3/4 wrap. Don't get too caught up in all Stihl alphabet soup, it'll make you . 3/4 wrap or "West Coast" versions of saws typically come with heavy-duty equipment load-outs. The 461 runs the same oiler my 441 uses, and the same oiler my 460s had, which oiled the 28" bar on them just fine. I upgraded mine just 'cause plus my 441 is no longer stock. 28" is a great bar size on these, especially if you spring for the "R" version with the big spikes. I love my 28" ES Lightweight bar, and highly recommend either ordering the saw with it or trading if the dealer will let you. It balances better than a 25" and weighs less than a 20". Food for thought.
Lmao master tech.... Ya it will make you crazy for sure... I think the standard version will be fine for me... And I will definitely see about the bar you speak of... Thanks a lot kyle
Reduced/light weight bars are very trendy these days, but, again, they are absolutely not necessary. I run a standard 25" ES bar on my 461. I used to have a Sugihara light weight but I actually l preferred how the standard ES bar cut, so I sold the Sugi. That said, I also had 32" ES and 32" Total Super Bar Light and Tough. With the longer bar, the ES was REALLY nose heavy (I kept bonking the tip on the ground when I was moving); whereas, the light bar is much better balanced. 28" is half way in between. I guess I would trust those who actually have experience with this length. How A Reduced-Weight Bar Affects The Performance Of A Pro Chain Saw If I were you, I'd order the 461 with the standard 25" ES bar, and when/if you ever need/want a longer bar, spring for a light weight 32".
Hey guys just to show you guys I am for real, and I do listen to all who have more knowledge than me, here are some picks of my 250, ol 290, and the new addition the standard 461.... I bought her with the 25"B&C..... I also bought a 20 B&C... I also got 2 or 3 chains per bar.... My price out door was $1000 with the 25B$C....anyway here are my ladies in the back of my 89 f250 wood truck, and yes that's a beer in the pic, I like to work hard and have a beer when I done.... Call me old school.... Anyway thanks a lot guys and I did run the new 461 today at half throttle.... Does anyone have a method to braking in a brand new saw.... Some say run the saw like you always do, and some say baby them for the first 3 tanks of gas, any info on break in much appreciated....
I just run um. Maybe tune it a little rich for the first few tanks. And congrats on the new addition!
Run it wide open in the wood, avoid revving the pizz outta it (out of the wood). Keep a sharp chain on it. You're much more likely to do damage running it at part throttle. These little carburetors are not optimized for part throttle. They have an idle circuit and a high speed circuit. That's it. The best break in is wood big enough to make it work some and longer (10-15 seconds or more) cuts.
Ok master tech, you do t think u have done any harm with the first tank do you.... I am cutting tomorrow til ol lady goes to work and will give her a real work out... And elder l on the miller light...it's better than nothin right!!!! Lmao you guys are on it!!!
