...Are they worth it? I just bought one off of Amazon for $35. My buddy that operates a portable sawmill suggested I get one. However, I’m a little concerned about some of the readings I got tonight. Everything I tested, except for a few logs here and there, was in the 12-15% moisture range. Here is what I tested: Wood (when cut) White ash (nov-feb) Silver maple (May) Sugar maple (May) Cherry (May) Red Oak (April-June) Mulberry (April) I just don’t understand how the red Oak and the dead, white ash are testing about the same. Also - any resource that shows optimum moisture by species, or is there just a general moisture-% that needs to be achieved for curing? Thanks for the help in advance!
I know you need to check a fresh split, so take a split and split it again to get a true reading in the center. Outside will always dry first and give false readings.
For sure it matters how and where you check it. For me, it is just one of those tools that very few really need. If you can't tell if the wood is dry enough, well, you should learn just from experience. When in doubt, leave it split and stacked 3 years then burn it. I've burned wood over 60 years and have never felt I needed a MM nor do I have any plans on buying one.
Meters are helpful if you’re buying wood or have limited supply on hand. They can really helpful when you think it’s dry but it’s actually not. The meters become less helpful once you know what you’re looking for though.
Some forum based search results ... Search Results for Query: Moisture meter | Firewood Hoarders Club
If you're testing the surface then everything you test will be the same. If you want to test the inside of a piece of wood then you have to split or cut it open and measure the inside. For firewood ( and even boards ) the center is your target and what takes forever to season. Testing the surface may be fine if you are planning on painting the wood.
I quote Mr. Savage, I own one or two... Use them very, very rarely. Noted point here... When in doubt, leave it sit for another year! Get your 3+ year pile growing...
I bought this one on ebay back in March for $12 i think. This model is more for lumber sawyers than firewood cutters IMO. I recently was curious about a 15 month seasoned oak split so i tried it. Reading was 12% on the outside, split it in half and i was surprised it was 25%. Would've bet good money it was below 20%...and lost! Split in question was felled by a early March 2018 snowstorm. I CSS soon there after. Stack was moved to a new location last March for more air movement. I pulled several barkless splits and put them in a sunnier spot. This one was heartwood and noticeably lighter in weight when i took the readings. Split was approx. 3"x5"
I have that one ( and a different one as well- yes, I am hopeless ). I’ve found that this one comes in about 3 percent higher than my other one (which is the mini one from harbor freight).
I still wouldve lost the bet as it would be 22% on your HF one Ctwoodtick . Which letter setting would you have used for the red oak? I used "C" based on owners manual. There is some variation in readings between the settings.
Ivw i would have used the “c” setting as well. With that one I go with the setting that gives the highest reading and go with that as my “worst case” scenario for moisture content. With pine, i for some reason don’t trust the meters. Pine I top over for 3-6 months ( not winter) and that usually dries it out decent enough unless splits are big.
If you are new to burning wood or buying wood I think they have their place. With that being said I am pretty new to burning wood and I don't use it that much at all because I rely on time to dry the wood as Backwoods Savage and others have mentioned. I did use it this year on a dead tree I took down. I split and re-split it and checked it with the MM, into the dry stack she went.
So if you live on the Oregon coast, with 60"+ of rain and constant fog, it would seem that a longer drying time than say we're I live, with 20" of rain, no fog, 30-40 days over 100degrees, and humidity levels of less than 25% for 2-3 seasons a year, would be in order. Not sure how 3 years is optimal for everyone. Just an observation.
I bought a cheapie out of curiosity. It gave me readings that were believable and consistent with what I would have expected. I certainly don't rely on it but it is a cool tool to have.
Was certainly helpful in teaching me my firewood wasn’t half as well seasoned as I thought it was. LOL It’s also nice to take a few readings as I load the basements. Last year for instance my wood, while seasoned, had picked up enough ambient moisture it needed help. Bought a dehumidifier and ran it for a month in the cellar next to the stacks. The first year I used it I also found out all the long branches we used to collect don’t dry much unless cut up. Dead barkless ones are ok but sapling trunks etc. nada Didn’t bother getting crazy about it and retesting. I could tell on the stove it helped. Sometimes the best you can do with what you’ve got has to be good enough.
But 3 years will do for almost any wood in most locales if not all locales. But remember, it still depends upon how you handle and store the wood. No covering on something on the Oregon coast? Won't last long at all.
Got mine just out of curiosity too. Usually check out splits going into the woodshed and when I start pulling them out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
