Log splitter hydraulic oil filter help

Been awhile since I've been on here, hope your all well!
I come back needing assistance, I have a 25ton black diamond log splitter, had trouble with this hydro filter before, don't have any paperwork on it, I pulled the filter off today after renting out and he said the filter loosened up and leaked oil, looked inside and it crushed the filter media cage, like it was trying to pull it through the system. What would cause this? Dirty filter or do I have too fine of a filter? This one is 10 microns I don't know for sure how long it's been like this.

 

First of all, where is the filter located? A 10 micron filter should ONLY be on the return side, and it should have a pressure bypass. Pictures would be great

 

I'll get some f

I'll get some for you

Here we go, Isaac, as far as I know this is factory setup, I found one diagram of a 27ton & 32ton splitter and the hose routing is the same.
Appreciate the help!

 

I got the same one with a different name on it and slightly different config. I'm only marginally sure of filter replacement other than the $20+ unit I found on a parts page with a number that does not cross easily. I have not yet nailed down a Fram or Baldwin part number for it. Once either is known it's easy. Pretty sure they are 1"x12tpi if my research was worth a hoot.

 

These are my suspects, but again, nothing nailed down.

 

See, I thought I maybe need to go up in micron size? But I know hydraulic is pretty tight tolerance, maybe it was just dirty? The filter I had is a napa 51xxx or something. Thanks, RCBS!

 

I went through the filter replacement shuffle with mine last year. Cross-reference charts often don't match micron ratings on the filters that are supposed to be the same. I honestly don't think you need a 10 micron filter on a hydraulic return line, especially when the finer micron rating creates more restriction. I got the Baldwin BT839, which has a 18 nominal/40 absolute rating, which I think is fine for a splitter.

If someone knows differently, please educate me!

 

Same here, wish I'd saved a pic of the filter/micron rating.

 

Yep, that’s on the return. I believe I use a 51553 on my splitter and bobcat. I can check tomorrow.

 

So, being a closed system...what am I filtering? Temps never get high enough to burn anything off. Not that I would go without completely, but where is dirt getting in except the wee tiny breather hole for the reservoir? Placing certain micron requirements on such seems *very anal. Manufacturers not giving a common filter # on these machines is facetious to me. Do they never think to partner with a major filter outfit located in the market that they will be sold in? (the warning labels and decals are in English)

 

Be nice to know a Wix that will fit. I've used their stuff for my tractor and buggy due to local availability and price. Only bad part about me finding a cross is that it will sortof force my hand to convert to ATF from UTF. I got a seeping feed hose anyways, so the tank is going to need drained for that. Figure I'll purge it, change the filter, change the hose and fill it back up with stuff that doesn't turn to pudding at 20 degrees. Then I can forget about it for another 10 years.

 

If I am not mistaken there is also a screen inside the tank on the end of the suction line. It is a bit of a pain to get at since you have to drain the tank. Might be a good time to treat it to an oil change and clean that screen as well.

 

I found those filters at Runnings yesterday on sale also! I'll get that put on and try it out.

Also put my brain to work and looked at that filter bracket an looked at the labeling all facing the right way.

 

I was wondering if I should change it? I can't say for sure that it's burnt or bad, hopefully I don't have trouble unbolting that line/flange.

 

Check the filter head to insure the built-in bypass is working properly. Many times filter problems are caused by broken bypass valves. The bypass valve is a plastic piece that when it breaks it can obstruct the flow causing excess back pressure or worst the broken piece can travel to the pump leading to failure.
Also check the direction of flow which is usually indicated by an arrow on the filter head.

 

I understand that the filter can’t/shouldn’t be in the intake line because of cavitation. Putting it in the return line means anything except pump or cylinder debris is passing through the pump BEFORE the filter, so the filter protection for the pump seems pretty passive to me. And any pump that’s shedding metal - well, I guess keeping the debris from circulating back into the pump is worth something, but the pump won’t last long once it starts throwing metal. That’s why I’m not sure a very fine micron rating matters much in this application. I’d rather keep the return flow rate high and pressure low.

 

I'll look in there, hopefully I'll see what you're talking about.

 

Mine is on the return, right before puking back into the reservoir.

 

Yep, that seems to be the standard configuration, at least with the ones I've seen. They've got an XX-micron filter filtering the return oil, but a 60-grit sized pickup screen (I'm exaggerating, but not much) protecting the pump and cylinder on the intake side. But I'm not sure how small you can go on the intake without inducing cavitation and aerating the fluid, which is a VERY bad thing for the pump. So I guess filtering the return line is better than nothing. Maybe? Or is it just a feel-good thing? I'm not sure.

 

Not sure the name of this particular part but there's oil leaking, hopefully it's not gone bad? I'd hate to have to source a new one or even just find a seal.