While I was at Tractor Supply today picking up some fittings for the air compressor and some hydraulic oil I saw this little 2238 sitting off in a corner. It had a tag on it marked as defective so I asked the manager how much they wanted for it and he said 100 bucks. I asked since it needed a new chain and I didn't know what was wrong with it is that the least they would take. Compression felt good, cylinder didn't feel like it was scrubbing, and everything looked good under the hood. I smelled the gas tank and it reeked of stale fuel. So I figured someone out bad gas in it. Any way the manager rang it up for $99.99 with a chain 50% off at $7. Got out the door for $113 and some change. Once I got back to the shop I replaced the fuel filter, replaced the spark plug, blew everything out, cleaned the clutch cover out, adjusted the carb, greased the sprocket on the bar, put fresh non-ethanol mix in, put a new chain on it, and she is running her heart out. I needed a small/light saw for limbing and small odds and ends jobs so I figured it would make a good sub 16" saw. Wanted to see what everyone's opinions were on the 2238. Any known problems or issues? Is it a fairly decent sub 40cc saw? Also is there anyway to replace the air filter with something better than the little foam pad? Thank You, -Rick T2 Tappin'
Is that the same as a Husqvarna 435? If so solid little firewood saw. And for $113 you suck. If it is the same as the 240 then you didn't get robbed but you don't get a you suck either. Lol
Lol I hear ya CoreyB Would like to know the husky equivalent. If it is a 435 then it was a gem in the rough. From the build it seems like a 240 equivalent. I found some dogwood to test it on after touching up the chain. Got to put spare parts in my field box for this too now. My very first jonsered saw T2 Tappin'
Can I run a Husqvarna bar and chain on this saw? What would be a good choice for a 14" bar and chain? Was looking to put one in on my Amazon order. Lowe's is currently out of stock on 14" bars and my local shop isn't open on weekends. Could just wait till next week and pick one up maybe Tuesday at the shop. T2 Tappin'
Yes a husky small mount will fit. Does it have 3/8 lp or .325 narrow kerf? I would probably go 14" a 16 will work but a 14 will feel better on my opinion.
Want to stick with 14" for sure. The smallest I have currently is 16" and it is going to be nice to have a smaller limbing saw. The bar has no info on it but the handle of the saw has some info on the bar. Says it is 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, with 52 drive links. The number of drive links was correct when I counted them. The bar looks like .050 gauge and I can check that with my caliper when I take the bar off tomorrow to blow it out. The pic of the info on the handle is below T2 Tappin'
That is probably the 240 cousin. And the bar does it oil through the adjusting pin hole. If so it is a A041 mount. You can still use a K095 but you have to take a cutting wheel on a drimel to grind out from the Grove to the adjusting pin hole.
According to the interweb it is the 240E equivalent just not "Cali rated". It does indeed oil through the unused adjusting hole. Not a big fan of that but I can live with it. I saw a b&c combo made by a company called Stens. Has anyone ever used Stens? I looked at the chain made by CountyLine and it just looked and felt cheap. The chain stock was really thin but tall. Guess it was trying to make up for the thin stock by adding height. I just sharpened the old chain and am using it currently. The only 14 inch chains I've seen are made by Husqvarna, Oregon, Stens, and then you have the b&c's that are compatible with Stihl. Basically any A041 b&c will work with the 2238? T2 Tappin'
Y Ya stens are definitely cost point products. Left Coast supply used to have GB bars at a really good price. I have good experience with them. They are solid and heavy but hold up well an are cheap. I have not been on their site lately because I usually end up wanting to buy stuff. Lol
Was looking at a 14" A041 mount for the Jred 2238 and an 18" K095 mount for my husky 340. I am like 95% sure the 340 is a K095 T2 Tappin'
Also this saw seems to have a poorly designed muffler. Didn't send like it can get much out but for a 38cc saw I don't know if a muffler mod would help like it will on my 340 T2 Tappin'
I have noticed that this saw doesn't turn up many rpms like my 142 does. I switched the spark plug from a champion to a ngk and it does start easier but no pick up in rpms. Tuned the carb which helped with starting but that was about it. Does this saw from the factory just not turn up much or can I do something to help it out? T2 Tappin'
Anyone tried modding a 2238? Muffler mod or anything of the sorts? Wondering if there is any hidden performance anywhere or if there are a few rpms hiding in the back ground Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
From the looks of it the muffler has 2 slots that I can see into the muffler from. After that the exhaust would hit the deflector and rebound out of the port. Would anyone think that a MM would help performance on such a small engine? If so where would you open a secondary slot for the exhaust? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Is this the jonsered muffler you have to uncrimp and gut or would it be like a husky that is hollow & restricted? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Had a follow up opthalmologist appointment today so I had to take the afternoon off of work. Thought I would do a little tinkering since it started raining pretty good. I uncrimped the muffler to take a peek inside and saw it was rather constricted. So I removed the inner baffle & plate, cleaned it out with a little carb cleaner gave it a good wipe down and blew it out with the air compressor, then proceeded to crimp it back. Used a coal chisel, hammer, and vice to get it back crimped. Gives me a whole new level of respect for unrestricted mufflers or the ones that are bolted together. It does run a bit better after a retune. Tuned it out of the cut then in a cut. Used a 10" piece of Leyland Cypress for cutting cookies on. Hopefully tomorrow evening I can get to the wood lot and see if it needs a hair bit of adjusting in hardwood. Still can't get many rpms out of it could just be the design and I don't want to run it too lean just for rpms. Anyone have any thoughts on why these saws might not have many rpms? Maybe the coil limiting it? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
I couldn't figure out a good way spot to open this muffler for a secondary exit but gutting the muffler and removing the front plate has a plenty of air flowing through the muffler. She is the loudest 40cc or below saw I've used without the front plate on the muffler. With the front plate on it is bareable without ear plugs but without it ear plugs are a must. Even beats out my 340/345 hybrid sound wise. Not sure if I should open a secondary exit on the muffler. Any thoughts? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
