Is there a noticeable difference between 50cc and 60cc saws?

I have a 550xp...but thought that if I could pick up a MS362 used at a good price, it might be a nice addition. Does that make sense? For what I do, I'd almost rather have a 40cc and a 60cc if I was running a two-saw combo. I picked 50cc as an all-rounder...and I love it. But, you know, the eyes wander sometimes.

FWIW, I mostly cut stuff 15" diameter or less.

 

My go to is a 50/70cc combo.... I run 16" on the 50cc and 20" on the 70cc so it makes changing over saws make sense. An in between choice probably wouldn't get used, all saws being equal besides power/ weight.

 

I wouldn't bother with it. Sounds like your saw will handle what your cutting just peachy. Maybe look for a smaller saw that you'll be happy with first.

 

There is a difference, there is even a noticeable difference between two different same cc class chainsaws.
I don't think it would be noticeable enough to justify buying one unless it was cheap.
I would justify it some other way like a backup chainsaw.
I would skip over it and get a 70cc which is a really noticeable jump.

 

^^ This. One can never have too many backup chainsaws. Especially if you run those huskies... If you ever get hopelessly pinched, you'll have to remove the clutch to get the chain off of it. Unless, you have a backup saw to cut yourself free.

Bigger saws will put a bigger smile on your face, but after a while, I think you'll find yourself reaching for the smallest one that can get the job done.

 

thanks all...this is definitely an issue of "want" more than "need". i'll probably save my money for something else, higher up on the priority list. but i'll keep looking at used saws...just in case!

 

When are you stihl heads gonna wake up & realize that huskies cut so fast that the bar never gets pinched?

 

Gary

 

X2

 

I would note that if you think you'd like a 362, you'll love a Dolly 6100. Then, look at the price tags- that'll seal the deal.

One productive team for me: 61 cc Dolly and 40 cc RedMax. Really digging "stratos".

 

I've always thought of 60 cc saws as a good one size fits all saw. If I had a 50cc and was looking to add another, I'd jump to a 70cc saw.

 

Yes, but for 15" stuff, prolly not that noticeable.

 

I think there is a definite difference between a 50cc and 60cc saw. You will notice a big difference on cutting speed. You can go 70cc but there will be the weight factor also. if you look around you will find the 60cc saw will not weight much more than a 50cc saw but when you jump up to a 70cc saw then the weight becomes a definite factor. Just another perspective on the subject.

 

We have a 550XP and a 562XP. The 562XP is NOTICEABLY more powerful, faster, and less likely to bog than the 550XP even though the 562XP is running a 6-10" longer bar (depending on which one is on it) than the 550XP. The 562 is one hell of a saw and impresses everyone who tries it. To us, there's enough difference between the 550 and the 562 to justify the cost of both purchased new. In a full day's work, the 562 does get heavy by the end of the day but at the same time, if I have to get into an awkward or stressful position to make the cut, often times I'll pick up the 562 because I'll be there for enough less time that it makes a difference in how sore I get. The 550 wins for medium to small trees, limbing, taking the upper main branches apart, etc because it's so much lighter and more nimble.

 

Have you tried a Stihl RS chain on that 550 ? Turns em into light sabers.

 

Ok, I'm going to have to research that.

 

Rs, rapid super, I run them on every saw I have, very good chain, I believe Oregon has the lgx? for their version.

 

Is there a catch to this chain? Like you need to sharpen it more often or something? I have an 18" bar now. I'm thinking of putting on a 16".

 

I was not very impressed with my 550xp when I first got it. Sure it revved great and sounded mean cutting the air. Put it to the wood and the magic disappeared.
The husky/Oregon chain that came with it cut a kerf not much thicker than the bar. This allowed sawdust bind, wood stress bind. It also constantly stretched which allowed sawdust to gather under the drive links and stall the chain.
The LGX is better than stock but IMO the teeth are softer and they still stretch quite a bit.

The RS cuts a wider kerf with sharper/larger/harder teeth so the engine is putting its power into cutting instead of trying to spin a chain that's constantly struggling to clear itself. Very minimal stretch.
Luckily I have a Stihl dealer near me that has "bastard" loops pre made for "those other saws not allowed in the store"
They'll also make up anything I want off the roll.

Truly a night and day expierience.
Try one, you won't want a 60cc saw after that. Your next desire would be a 70.

 

The RS is an aggressive chain, if you can keep it out of the dirt and in clean wood they'll stay sharp long as any other, I think it's the RM is also an aggressive chain but is more forgiving in dirt. There's a few guys here that know all the details of chains, I just know I love the RS.